All Accordin'

2012-02-11T07:40:00.016-07:00

There are three Restaurants Paladar - Cozinha Brasileira in La Paz. The closest to me is a mere block away. I consider this restaurant a guilty little pleasure because at lunch I sip one Caipirinha (Brasil's National Cocktail) while making my way through the menu a plate at a time. I'm in no hurry; I'll get there as long as the caipirinhas stay this good.

I sat down to Septinho de Pollo

Restaurant Paladar - Cozinha Brasileira
Guachalla 359, Sopocachi
La Paz, Bolivia
tel: 2.244.4929

I Believe in Miracles (USD$1.15) - Los Yungas, Bolivia

2012-02-06T09:33:00.048-07:00

In the Bolivian tropical zone there are many delights, one of which is the Fried Chicken Dinner available as the sun goes down and the day begins to cool off. In the small pueblo of Coroico, there is a long string of small blue Kiosks just off the plaza in which women feverishly labor to feed strolling families and ravenous workers recently liberated after a long sultry day. My friend, Sofia, is all smiles and cheerfully calls out to neighbours, repeat customers and colorful travelers arriving from far flung corners of the world. Oh man, does she have the spark! She admits readily she'd like to speak el ingles as even "los chinos" speak English, pues. Conjoling and sweet, she's a natural cook and a bit of a "Master of Ceremonies" all rolled into one.

She explains matter of factly that she uses only corn starch (no salt or pepper) to crisp the chicken which is cut in a way to increase surface area. This results in a quicker cooking time and more crunch in every bite. In addition she's instinctively hit upon a recipe for Pommes Frites (Twice Fried - Belgian Style Fries). She fries peeled, cut & towel dried potatoes 'til barely golden and puts them to drain under a warming light. As the orders come in she drops the cooked potatoes into oil at an even higher temperature to achieve a perfectly crispy chip.

Try this classic Pommes Frites recipe at home; it's dead easy if you attend to detail - Heat a copious amount of oil to 160° C (325° F). Deep fry the potatoes in batches 'til the fries are slightly golden. Drain and allow to cool.

For the second round heat oil to 190° C (375° F). Fry the potatoes once again until crispyyyy and golden. Drain, salt and serve immediately. Get ready for the CRUNCH!

To the above add Fried Plantain and Llajua (Bolivia's Fiery Sauce). And now you now have a Jungle Chicken Dinner which I consider a small miracle for USD$1.15 (8 Bolivianos)!

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2012. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wine!

An Apple a Day?

2012-02-04T09:56:00.029-07:00

An Apple a Day?

No. No not when a Red Delicious is more red than delicious! Not when the flesh has no more flavor than the card board box the apples were shipped in. Not when commercially grown is synonymous with chemically grown!

No to the fungicides and pesticides and yes to the banana... a simple, perfect fruit you peel and eat - Mother Nature's little gem.

You might have gathered I stand by the banana. Thought to have been first domesticated in Papua New Guinea. Today, they are cultivated all throughout the tropics. And they are now grown in at least 107 countries. I just happen to live in one of those banana republics. Though Bolivia does not rank anywhere near the top ten banana producing nations however she does produce a variety that has a wonderful flavour, a custardy texture and a perfume that enlivens any breakfast. That is why whenever I have a chance I buy them by the large hanging cluster, made up of tiers (called hands). I wait for the sugar spots to develop to maximize enjoyment... and if a few go black? No worries, the kitchen is then graced with the aroma of Banana-Nut Bread baking away on the weekend! So as mentioned - "An Apple a Day? No way!" So sorry, Ben Franklin.

Eating a banana or two a day helps avoid strokes, can help control high blood pressure, reduce the chances of suffering a blood clot, prevents recurring minor depression. It is also a huge source of anti-oxidants. So bang it out in a smoothie... there you go, DONE! Now isn't that better!

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2012. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wine!

Milonga al Fresco - La Paz, Bolivia

2012-01-28T09:50:00.025-07:00

I speak to el Meastro of Milonga each & everytime I have the good fortune to find him. You see we have much in common. We are both fans of los grandes of Milonga like Aníbal Troilo, Lucio Demare, Angel Vargas and so many others. We both love it and he plays it well. Milonga is a music form which preceded the Tango. It originated in South America around the Río de la Plata area of Argentina and Uruguay. Interestingly, the Milonga uses the same basic elements as Tango and requires a greater relaxation of legs and body. Movement is normally faster, being a kind of rhythmic walking without complicated figures, with a more "rustic" style than Tango. Milonga pulls at the heart.

Each rendezvous I place a few coins in the box that is tied with a cord to his ankle to dissuade snatch thieves who might think robbing the blind is easy-pickings. I've never known his name, I simply call him Maestro. He calls me caballero (gentleman). The titles we've conferred on one another seem to be enough to foster our respectful friendship. Recently returned to La Paz I've had my eye out, looking in all the regular spots. But he was no where to be found. And then today in the market, I heard the strains of his Bandoneon. I made my way through the crowd to see his hands, enjoy his phrasing (accents on the 1st, (sometimes also 2nd) 4th, 5th, and 7th beats) and watch the way people respond to Milonga al Fresco! Because no matter where el Maestro plays the world changes for the better. There are just many more smiles present... an inspired young man took a long-legged girl into his arms, looked deeply into her eyes and they danced a few pasos - at first impassioned, then laughingly and obviously much taken with one another. It didn't matter they didn't have a clue. The crowd applauded their youth, their lack of inhibition and the fact they were in love. BRAVO! MILONGA AL FRESCO! BRAVO MAESTRO!

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2012. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wine!
Tecnical information - Wikipedia

Aymara Prayer - Alasitas Festival - La Paz, Bolivia

2012-01-26T03:23:00.009-07:00

An Aymara prayer shared at the Alasitas Festival! The Yatiri (Aymara Shaman) incants in an ancient tongue with smatterings of Spanish as he calls to Ekeko (Aymara God of Abundance) to smile on the celebrant who bows her head in reverence...

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2012.
All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wine!

Shaman Ceremony - Alasitas Festival - La Paz, Bolivia

2012-01-25T17:08:00.008-07:00

A young Bolivian mother only wanting the best for her child seeks out a Yatiri (Aymara Shaman) at the Alasitas festival for a blessing to make everything alright, now and in the future...

Alasitas Festival 2012 - La Paz, Bolivia

2012-01-25T12:08:00.005-07:00

The perfect syncretic melding of native religion with that of the christian. The ancient indigenous Alasitas festival begins on the steps of La Paz' San Francisco Cathedral where participants will be blessed by both Shamans & Catholic priests...

Shaman's Blessing - Alasitas Festival - La Paz, Bolivia

2012-01-25T04:03:00.008-07:00

On the front steps of the Metropolitan Cathedral of La Paz and first day of the Alasitas Festival 2012, a Yatiri (Aymara Shaman) beseeches Ekeko (Aymara god of abundance) to bless a family and their miniature objects bought that day, each represents wishes/desires they have for the upcoming year. Popular miniatures are food so as not to lack a meal, a house for shelter, a car to work as a taxi driver, a university diploma or just about anything each as diverse as human desire. The festival will run for about four weeks. 'Til Carnival, and once again the festive spirit is renewed!

Shrimp with Achiote, Yucatan Style!

2012-01-22T07:53:00.018-07:00

Nothing better, nothing easier! Yucatan style shrimp gets it's wonderful flavour from Achiote Paste (annatto seed). It's a Mayan classic I learnt while visiting my brother Roberto at his family's Yucatan Beach House in Chuburna, north of Merida. It's fast and furious and guaranteed to make your mouth water! First step - make Arroz a la Mexicana (Mexican Rice) and in the 20 minutes it takes to cook long grain rice the shrimp are ready to be devoured!

The All Accordin' Recipe is as follows:

2 pounds of shrimp
6 tablespoons achiote paste, available in most Latin markets or online
1 cup fresh orange juice, (or whatcha got on hand)
Juice of three freshly squeezed limes
1 onion finely minced
2 cloves of garlic finely minced
For heat add Chile Powder (I use ground Habanero)
Salt
Fresh ground pepper

Mix all ingredients (except shrimp) in a bowl dissolving the paste into the citrus juices. Then toss in shrimp, Cover well and let marinate until your pan is ripping hot. Add a little oil, once it smokes add shrimp (without marinade). As the shrimp take colour hit the pan with a splash of marinade! Cook 'til done (al gusto). Everyone likes them done to varying degrees. I prefer them golden & just barely done through. Others want them well done, suit yourself. Isn't that what it's all about?

Serve piled high on steaming rice and always with cold, cold beer. Remember plenty of napkins as this is a hands-on feast!

Nota Bene: Be aware of carry-over cooking. In the case of fish & seafood it's crucial; food continues to cook on the plate after it's removed from the heat source. Pull shrimp when just under the point you prefer for greater enjoyment.

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wine!

At Home in the Andean Sky - La Paz, Bolivia

2012-01-20T11:37:00.041-07:00

Summertime La Paz and walking on sunshine is a joy. Newly returned after months of travel, walking affords time to reaquaint myself with a city that pops with color, colonial architecture and the gift of art/graffiti. And being at an altitude that ranges from 10,600 ft to over 13,000 ft (3400 to 4000 m), the sky is even bigger here than most places in the world. This is an old city in terms of those in the Americas. Fifteen hundred forty eight (1548) was the year of it's inception. That's ample time for man to change his surroundings as they change him and the evidence is all around. As a walker in a city with history, I notice things like skinny sidewalks comprised of rectangular slabs lain in a now forgotten year - stone slabs cut by brawn, chisel & hammer then placed by hand. With settling, cracks, repairs and replacement with more modern materials over the centuries it all translates into "watch your step." Yet at the same time you´ll want to keep your eyes up, forever up to relish the sky! Oh, the glorious sky!

Walking is a guiltly pleasure that requires no apology. I walk everyday, to market, to appointments, to take a late afternoon coffee. Sometimes I walk only to escape an insistent computer that sits prominently on the corner desk. Quietly pressing, it nags me to finish the task at hand, to tackle the next. And as anyone who works principally at home knows well, there's really no rest. In response I lace my shoes and without destination, I walk. The city is built on steep hills and justifies the old local joke that there are more "ups & downs" in La Paz than elsewhere. Not as funny as it is true. In stretching my legs on the inclines, I stretch the mind, as well. I often think that the city is like a beautiful Blue Sapphire Ring encircled by diamonds. Sapphire blue is the color of the sky. And since the Andes run southeast of near by Lake Titicaca, and just east of La Paz, the city is adorned by six summits higher than 19,685 ft (6,000 m) all glaciated and attended by many others capped with snow produced through proximity to moist Amazon lowlands. These are the sparklers that complete my image of a radiant ring of blue. And what a city for walking, with all the distinctive and intimate facets to make this an attractive gem.

The greater metro-area has a population estimated at a little over two million inhabitants living in the shadow of the triple-peaked Illimani, a mountain that accompanies us in day-to-day life. This is the Aymara Capital of the world. A strong indigenous influence makes this a unique place to walk. And I take it all in on my rounds here, there and beyond. I keep walking to know well the city, it's people and the sky and I have no doubt that the cranky computer impatiently awaits my return. But first an empanada and a little chat with the locals. And once again, I am at home in the Andean sky...

Bourbon Mist Rebelations - Georgia

2012-01-15T17:50:00.011-07:00

Recently, I shared dark Demerara Rum with southern friends (which they liked a lot) and responded with a gracious invitation to dine with them two days hence.

Arriving at the appointed hour, I was asked if I'd care for a Bourbon Mist. Bourbon Mist? Not being much of a whiskey drinker I asked if the cocktail was sweet. To a burst of laughter I was informed no not sugary but as sweet to the palate as mother's milk. Okay?

First allow me to add that this circle of friends is rather feminine, high powered and have a good bit more experience in the Bourbon world than I. And in the face of such august expertise and given the trust we've built over the years I thought I'd just let it ride... Okay! Yes! Bourbon Mist it is!

The recipe is as follows:

Pack a chilled Old-Fashioned glass with finely crushed ice. Freely pour bourbon into the crush. Lemon peel optional.

Simple, beautiful and anything but frou-frou! And as sweet as the hints of caramel, sweetcorn and vanilla resident in the liquor. It was explained that the key to enjoying Kentucky's finest is a little ice to open the bourbon and patience (for melting & sipping). I think I'm getting it. And yes, I believe I'll have another. Thank you, ladies!

La Nacional Mexican Buffet - Columbus, GA

2012-01-15T08:07:00.014-07:00

This is the only real Mexican-Mexican restaurant for miles and miles and miles in any direction! Not Mexican American or American Mexican. A real Mexican restaurant, de veras! That being said the menu has been Americanized somewhat since my first visit in 2010. But only in that particular kid friendly items have been added (i.e. hard shell ground beef tacos). Parents & grandparents take note, Kids Eat Free with paying adult every Wednesday night. And I like the thought of gringo kids having exposure to real deal Mexican meals!

For more developed palates, fear not, there are plenty great Norteño classics at this one price ($6.99) - all you can eat buffet. The Mole de pollo & Tamales top my list but you'll find Chiles Rellenos, Chile Verde, Mixed Fajitas, Bistek Ranchero, Flautos, Quesadillas, Tacos, Burritos & Enchiladas, too. The salsa bar goes from mild to wild with plenty of limes for squeezing on everything! And everything made from scratch with the exception of the tortillas. I enjoy the Aguas Frescas, Horchata & Melon beverages that are produced in-house, as well.

Even the waitresses are 100% Mexicana and fully bilingual! So is the cook! Flavor permeates the entire location. It's a great fresh find in a land of chain restaurants and fry joints!

La Nacional Mexican Buffet
4403 17th Ave, Columbus, GA 31904
706.221.9911

Photo courtesy of Wikipedia

Meritage Cafe - Columbus, GA

2012-01-14T12:33:00.024-07:00

I had heard the buzz about Meritage Cafe in Columbus and haboured high hopes for a good night out. The ambiance was comfortable & ample yet banquet hallish, perhaps due to stack-able chairs, etc... However, the table setting was a highlight.

Our evening resulted in two Duck plates served very under-done (& I like it rare), risotto flavorful, tomato parmigiano soup room-temp on a cold night. All salads on offer were frou-frou candied pecans or a crumble of bleu cheese, so I requested a simple green salad dressed with vinaigrette. What I received was a hand full of Mesclun lettuce with a little cup of olive oil & a little cup of vinegar. No salt, pepper, tomato, not a thing more to complete the plate, umff. One of our dining guests didn't know how to approach a scooped out head of iceberg filled with creamy dressing and just pushed it to the side. The second guest ordered medium rare Filet Mignon (French for "cute fillet"); it came to the table rare and fat untrimmed. Service lacked confidence even though sincere. Our waitress was rushed and repeatedly bumped into the backs of chairs as she scooted between tables, somewhat unnerving. We didn't say much - just asked for the check, tipped 20% and compared notes in the car.

We felt Meritage Cafe falters in attention to detail. There are many good characteristics (i.e. excellent wine list, decor) but needs a seasoned professional at the helm to give direction & live up to the hype... I hope they can get it together as there's always room for good sensibilities on any dining scene.

Meritage Cafe
1350 13th Street Columbus, GA 31901-2345

706. 327.0707

http://www.meritagecafe.net/

Dinner by any Name is Still a Little Feast!

2012-01-13T12:12:00.010-07:00

A kilo of wild scallops warrants searing attention! I like them simple with their own flavor leading all taste buds to nirvana.

Here they splash down in a deglaze of crustacean juice, olive oil and a spritz of fresh Lemon, sea salt & a few twists of cracked pepper. Accompanied by chilled spears of asparagus in vinaigrette. Add a young, un-oaked Spanish red (Tempranillo) and dinner by any name is still a little feast!

Ezell's Catfish Cabin - “Fish Tremble When You Mention Their Name!” Columbus, GA

2012-01-13T11:35:00.017-07:00

Ezell's Catfish Cabin - Not a restaurant really but more a cabin where laid-back locals go to get the finest of this genre. Every visit to Columbus, I eat country style fried food just once at each favorite spot. And I always rush to Ezell's to get some of the very best. More than Catfish, the sides are perfect. The collards delicious, hush puppies crisp and the fried green tomatoes really, really good. For crispy fries just ask; southerners prefer a softer texture (to each his own). Our waitress Julie was upbeat and happy to please. It was an even better experience having her guide our group of four travelers... We left well fed, well attended and with overwhelming desire to return again and again.

Ezell's Catfish Cabin
4001 Warm Springs Rd
Columbus, GA 31909
706.568.1149

Photos by Mick Huerta

Lamb’s 151 Proof Navy Rum - Maritimes Canada

2012-01-12T22:06:00.019-07:00

A bottle of Demerara Rum came to me as a gift from dear friends after their recent trip to Newfoundland and the small French islands of St. Pierre & Miquelon. I put the gift to good use close to midnight. Just one dram of a favorite flavor from the Maritimes of Canada ~ A pipe, a pen, a glass of crushed ice and an opportunity to write on heavy creme vellum. In scribbling new year greetings home to St. John's, NL and to the alluring southern shore, I realized there is no one who ever leaves home. Nor does home ever leave any one of us...

Canada’s 300-year-old tradition of trading Rum for dried cod fish continues in the Atlantic Maritime provinces of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia where rums from Antigua, Barbados, Jamaica and the Demerara are imported and aged.

Rosehill Seafood Co - Columbus, GA

2012-01-12T11:38:00.026-07:00

The Oysters are tremendous at Rosehill Seafood Co, fresh & fried! Oh sure, there's all the requisite broiled & fried Seafood, Shrimp, Fish and Crab meat. And if you desire hot, crispy french fried potatoes just ask; they love to accommodate (southern style fries are limp & served at room temperature and they like them that way).

Surprisingly, hush puppies at Rosehill are not so very good but really that's no grave transgression. Any tummy is only so big, bread of any sort is only filler and serious eaters are just out for the best. And in the opinion of many, the best they offer are the OYSTERS! They are served chilled by the half ($4.00) and full dozen ($8.00) on a tray w/o shaved ice. We just eat'em fast and order more. And with a Brown Bag Liquor License there's no hiccup arriving with your favorite tipple. I prefer dry bubbly with oysters (an acidic flavor to salty brine for balance!) and when putting a bottle on the table, the only thing asked is; "How many glasses?" They always provide big plastic picnic tumblers but who's to complain, the service is efficient and friendly and the OYSTERS! Oh, did I mention the OYSTERS!

Rosehill Seafood Co
2621 Hamilton Road Columbus, GA 31904-8539
706.322.1269

CAFÉ LE RUE @ The Landings - Columbus, GA

2012-01-12T07:08:00.012-07:00

This is a self-proclaimed Authentic Cajun Restaurant and the only in Columbus, Georgia. I really don't know what that means but the Shrimp Gumbo was superb and the Fried Oysters were exceptional! CAFÉ LE RUE offers a diverse menu which obviously appeals to the local American palate (kids & parents seemed equally as happy) but evidently have not compromised on core classics... We enjoyed it tremendously, partly because we did not order Wraps or the fries. Leaving all that to the kids, we stuck with Cajun classics. Kudos to Cafe Le Rue!

Cafe Le Rue @ The Landings
2523 Airport Thruway, #D
Columbus, GA 31904
706.507.5851

Uptown Fish House - Columbus, GA

2012-01-11T07:27:00.032-07:00

Columbus, Georgia - Uptown; you'll find catfish that crisps then melts in your mouth, hush puppies to quiet your hunger and all the smiles to make you feel perfectly at home.

Michael & Sonya Eddings opened Uptown Fish House Spring 2011 and are going strong. Visiting for lunch on a rainy day we sat in their well appointed dining area. The room about half full, the server was inviting and efficient, the Red Stripe Beer very cold. No doubt good things to come. No disappointments, either. Quick delivery of Fried Oysters, Catfish, Okra, Sweet Potato Fries & Onion Rings put a huge smile on my face. A batter so light it crackled and Okra so very right they were good complement to hush puppies to die for, honestly! I am not a fan of tartar sauce with fried foods (a personal preference) but Tabasco & Lemon wedges appeal. Our server promptly provided both. A winning combination all way 'round; fast kitchen, good service and plates so tasty you'll plan your next visit before finishing off the morsels in front of you! Try the Grilled Crab Cakes, truly Foodie Heaven!

When out that way, drop in. Michael, Sonya and staff are waiting for you. Well worth the trip when traveling with taste buds as your principle guide... "Where the Big Fish Dine" and where the small fry will be happy, too!

Uptown Fish House
1208 1st Ave Columbus, GA 31901-4298
706.324.7405
http://www.uptownfishouse.com/

Three King's Day - Día de los Tres Reyes Magos

2012-01-06T07:24:00.010-07:00

The Twelve Days of Christmas now conclude with the arrival of the three Eastern Kings! Since childhood I have loved the song "Partridge in a Pear Tree" and all it's imagery. But it really made no sense when juxtaposed with North American celebrations of the retail season. Which twelve days? Easy to be confused when Christmas carols are played in stores and on the radio well before Thanksgiving day. Now turning to the core of the matter and reason for it all, the Twelve Days of Christmas are the festive days beginning Christmas Day (25 December). The Twelfth Night of Christmas is always on the evening of 5 January. Twelfth Night is followed by the Feast of the Epiphany on 6 January. Now you may ask what this has to do with the modern world? Ah, nothing. But it might explain why the Latinos in your town are planning dinner, baking a ring shaped pastry and are acting, well, festive.

In the Latin world, Epiphany day is called El Día de los Reyes (The Day of the Kings), i.e., the day when several Kings or Magi, arrived to worship and present three gifts to the baby Jesus after following a particularly bright star in the heavens. I find it an incredible story and a wonderful excuse to celebrate with a parade, general merriment and ten lords a-leaping. And yes, you now have permission to take down your Christmas tree!

source - wikipedia
video source - Youtube

Las Posadas of Christmas!

2011-12-24T11:58:00.011-07:00

Las Posadas is a nine-day celebration with origins in Spain, now celebrated chiefly in Mexico, Guatemala and parts of the Southwestern United States, beginning December 16th and ending late Christmas Eve and followed by la Misa de Gallo (Midnight Mass).

Typically, each family in a neighborhood will schedule a night for the Posada to be held at their home, 16th - 24th of December. Every home has a nativity scene and the hosts of the Posada act as the innkeepers. The neighborhood children and adults are the pilgrims (los peregrinos), who go house to house requesting lodging by singing a traditional song about the pilgrims. Most all pilgrims carry lit candles in their hands, yet others carry statuettes of Joseph leading a burro, on which Mary is riding. In small villages a young girl wearing a shawl rides a burro reenacting the story of searching for room at an inn (posada), any inn. Even a manger would do...

Cannella's PIZZA! Two Thumbs Up! Way, Way Up!!!

2011-12-20T23:01:00.014-07:00

Cannella's is an old school American-Italian fave in the center of Salt Lake City, Utah. However, currently there's a renaissance happening there. The young Joe Cannella along with Culinary Institute of America grad, Sean Guckian, are shaking up the Out-West Pizza World!

Upon tasting these pies with heady flavor and crispy crust my hard core East Coast friend gasped; "OMG! This is New York, this is New York!" I thought perhaps the style was closer to Pizza Mecca - Napoli. Never one to quibble, it remains best for your taste buds to decide. Fresh & crisp one version is superbly sublime cheese; another sports a fresh salad on top; yet another is perfumed with truffle oil!

These young fellows know well it begins with incredible dough and finishes with the flourishes! And what that will do in your mouth is a matter of getting there and finding out if you can handle all the flavour!!! "OMG, this is New York!" Many thanks to irrepressible New Yorker, Nancy Fillat, for such an apt description and a perfectly quotable line!

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved
mickhuerta@gmail.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wine!

Holiday Beaner's Breakfast (w/o a bean in sight)!

2011-12-15T12:22:00.017-07:00

My younger brother Roberto gave me a gift of this season's Green Chiles! He had roasted a few bushels and knew that living in South America (where the peppers are different) would leave me yearning for this Chile emblematic of our family's cooking. The quart zip-lock bags were marked XXX-Hot. And when creating in the kitchen he is careful to use this batch with care for he's one of the few who can eat them, for incendiary reasons. Then I fly in and pile them on morning eggs over-easy, steam fried ranch potatoes accompanied by fresh corn tortillas!

He looked at the lone plate and complained, "Hey, can't a brother get a little bit of love? Miguel, where's mine?" Feeling slightly red-faced because of my unabashed selfishness & blind hunger, I gave him the first plate and started one of my own... Our father always said that the best Chiles make you sniffle, hiccup and cry. As for us, we enjoy sniffling and hiccuping and crying for more. So I confirm that they were just right. A Holiday Beaner's Breakfast? We both had seconds piled high with one of our childhood faves. We drank the blackest coffee dusted with ground cinnamon and felt sated for conjuring memories and having had a little time together as Green Chile fanatics yet again!!!

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
http://mickhuerta.blogspot.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wine!

The Miracle of Many!

2011-12-14T12:38:00.008-07:00

'Tis the season of parties and party trays and nibbles galore! Somewhere in there you're sure to find Deviled Eggs. Ho Hum. Mayonnaise and Colman's Dry Mustard join forces yet again to deliver a holiday staple.

But really isn't it time to be-devil your eggs. If you're going to take the time make'em POP with flavour! How about using a bottled Habanero sauce (el Yucateco is deliciouso) & make it happen. Or use the Colman's and augment it with Maille Dijon Mustard! Top with Salmon Roe or Caviar and freeze a bottle of your new favorite vodka, Russian Standard! Add Lobster, Crab or Smoked Salmon to the mix then fill! Just make'em wickedly tempting & wild! You'll prompt laughter and conversation with every bite! The holidays will be better for the all the joy you've brought to loved ones, friends & tag-a-longs! And isn't that all you really wanted to do in the first place? Ho ho ho instead of Ho Hum Drum! Yum!

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011.
All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wine!

Wine Bottle to Wine Glass!

2011-12-10T10:30:00.010-07:00

Reduce, Reuse, Recycle and Re-purpose! The concept comes home when you've bought the wine, drink it at dinner and the bottle stares you in the face during clean-up. Throw a garden party and the problem grows one hundred fold! This simple solution requires little skill but provides great satisfaction while doing your part. Truly a great way to end up in your cups!

Step 1: Use a jig to create a score line that runs the circumference of the bottle (the bottle can be scored with a diamond or carbide tipped tool for scoring glass)

Step 2: Use a second jig and blowtorch (as seen in video) to evenly heat bottle, as the bottle is heated the score line created in step 1 will actually crack the glass

Step 3: Use the bucket of water to complete the separation of bottle top from bottle bottom

Step 4: Sand, sand, sand with various grits of paper to smooth drinking edge.

Video by Bruno of Curbly.com
Instructions by moondogdesigns

Red Wine with Fish? Perfectly Delish!

2011-11-18T08:11:00.010-07:00

Taking a hint from the Spanish, I say yes to red wine with fish! Now that is not an unqualified proclamation; in keeping with the Spanish sensibility I look for a light, dry, unoaked Red. A slight chill on a simple Tempranillo would readily do. Think of paella bursting with shrimp & saffron. Or entertain thoughts of Camarones al Ajillo with asparagus (as pictured here) surely they are best paired with a wine with enough flavour to dance all the subtleties these dishes have to offer. When selecting a Tempranillo for fish & seafood look for the cosecha not the crianza, cosecha is the younger less complex of the two. Also try a Garnacha, a Rosé better known to English & French speakers as Grenache. Dry and crisp, Garnacha will enliven your palate as you share the good life with family and friends. Fish no longer needs to respond only to Chardonnay! And now hasn't life just gotten a bit tastier?

Autumn - Hearth & Hospitality

2011-11-10T09:27:00.014-07:00

Roast chicken is one of those things that converts a house into a home and somehow in the process of learning this well you go from homeowner to host. Not rocket science just one of life's little tasks that requires a bit of patience & practice. Once mastered you'll have friends galore at your door looking to bask in the warm glow of your hearth & hospitality. And they'll be so appreciative they're sure to bring the wine.

The process begins by preheating the oven to 450°F. Rinse the chicken and dry it well. A dry bird results in a crisp bird!

No fuss, I don't truss. I find it simple to cut out the back bone (reserve it for the soup pot), really no one wants it on their plate. Slather both halves with flavour! Recently I conspired to roast two birds. I used Chimichurri Sauce for one and Ajvar (puree of roasted red peppers) mixed with olive oil and lemon juice for the second. Apply ample coarse salt and fresh ground black pepper. Nota Bene: Half chickens roast quicker than their whole counterparts. So pop them into the hot oven and don't touch the door again 'til you check them at 40-45 minutes. In the meantime, get busy with your side dishes; rice, asparagus, salad etc. If you opt for potatoes prep, prick and microwave them for a bit then place in the oven 'long side of the chicken.

As for wine, you'll love Sauvignon Blanc, however, a light Burgundy (pictured above) is rather good as well. Really, the pleasure of gathering loved ones around the table is more timing then culinary skill. And perhaps the only real skill in life worth cultivating is gathering those who are near and dear. And with a roast chicken and good wine the evening will truly be heavenly.

Foto compliments Mimi Woodbridge

Wonderlust - Under the Southern Cross!

2011-10-25T08:35:00.055-06:00

Won·der·lust (wondr-lst) n. - A very strong or irresistible impulse to travel this world of wonder.

In a year of wonderlust, I flew to Santiago then on to the south of Chile and there the night sky of Patagonia was graced with the smallest of the eighty-eight modern constellations; small, yes, but one of great distinction. La Cruz is what you’ll hear in Spanish, the Latin would have it as Crux Australis and in English, better known as the Southern Cross.

The Cross is easily visible from the southern hemisphere at most any time of year. It is also visible near the horizon just north of the equator for a few hours every night during winter-spring in the north. For instance, it is visible in Southern Mexico or any other place at latitude 25° N or less at around 10 pm at the end of April. I mention the logistics being the Cross is so eagerly pursued by all Northern visitors to the South.

Once traveling to Puerto Natales, hiking through Torres del Paine National Park and eating my fill of Centolla King Crab in Puntas Arenas, I went down to the water. At the wharf I sought out a boat to sail the Straits of Magellan and make Ushuaia, Argentina & then Porto Williams, Chile from where you can fly over or round Cape Horn by sail. Both cities are enjoyed as the most southerly in the world. The aspect of the land put me in mind of my native Newfoundland and surely the position of both points to their respective poles would produce resemblances in sky and scenery. But my surprise was not the similarities but the emotion provoked by rough land and cold sea; I suffered an attack of nostalgia that I hadn’t known for decades. At the rail watching ragged shores I hummed a favorite folk song (Saltwater Joys) in a rush of salt air and white tips cresting on black water. I had to pull myself into the miraculous present to get clear of the melancholy. That passage through waters renown for being temperamental was unmarred by tempest and high winds. Yet at night the water had its chop and the Cross hung beautifully in the clear nocturnal sky. With a deep cup of Chilean red, I thought of all the sailors who had plied these inhospitable waters; most notably Magellan, de Gamboa, Thomas, Drake and then Darwin and his boat giving name to the Beagle Channel, intrepid all. Coming in from the dark cold, I stood watch long into the night with my reveries and wine at the fore of the craft. Sleep did not come readily that night.

After the flight over the Horn from Porto Williams and taking in the panorama of cold, craggy expanse I kept thinking Antarctica is just down there; Looking south I felt no compulsion to leave. I slowly made Ushuaia and lingered there on its wide bay on the southern coast of Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego. All the while I’d read the work of Nobel Prize winner Gabriel Mistral. In those environs I felt a kinship with her and was thankful for she helped me sense all I was seeing. Adding to that, the Cross was with me every night and I felt no loneliness only the loveliness of being at the ends of the earth.

A flight was booked to Buenos Aires (BA) and so there was an imposed limit to my wanderings by rigid itinerary. I’m most inclined to think travel plans should be as soft as a whim, as subtle as caprice but I suppose that would never fly with the airlines of any country, silly me. BA was so far north the afternoons were hot and the evenings cool, perfect for late night carousing. The wine had changed to Malbec in perfect compliment to great commotion and excitement till the wee hours. Lamentably light pollution contaminated my view of the Cross but I knew it was there I could feel it.

Last day in BA fidgety & restless, it was as if the road had called. Next morning I was to fly to the Falls of Iguaçu (on the border of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay) then travel home overland to La Paz, Bolivia by way of Asuncion. And in this manner, I was to complete a loop of South American travel adorned by the light of the Cross. For me the Cross is friend, siren and lover. It must be so for many, being I’ve seen people tattooed with the constellation and note it embellishing the flags of nations (Australia, Brazil, New Zealand, Papua New Guinea and Samoa). When a land adopts you and you call it home you never suspect you’ll receive the gift of stars. You should come south for a visit. You just may find a new home and new Cross to call your own!

- Fotos, map and star information compliments of Wikipedia

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011.
All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
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Vienna Restaurant: Anchotini - New Martini Deserves Respect! La Paz, Bolivia

2011-10-16T12:50:00.029-06:00

“Never say never, never say always!” Red faced! I've just had opportunity to learn this lesson anew!

Admittedly I have on many, many occasions pooh-poohed the idea of any Martini Cocktail other than the Classic Dry (and then only with gin). In the face of Choco-tinis & Apple-tinis, I have mocked enthusiastically and freely voiced my disdain. And not long ago I wrote expressing extreme Dry Martini prejudice, subsequently receiving email decrying my rigid stance. Immediately thereafter, I launched into research to prove my position that Euro & Latino bartenders drown perfectly good gin in Vermouth. Granted I was to use a small sample group to tar the aforementioned bartenders but I've traveled internationally three decades (over half my life time) drinking and teaching the Dry Martini. So with all that far-flung experience, I figured I could use my city of residence (La Paz, Bolivia) as the macro in the micro, the world in a grain of sand so to speak.

Presently, there are a little over two million people living here with a good smattering of Europeans in the food and beverage industry. Perfect, Euros and Latinos! Good! I was to drink one Martini in each location and move on to the next, hit it and quite, all in the name of science and statistics. I covered La Comedie, La Guingette, the penthouse Utama/Plaza Hotel, the Radisson Bar, Europa Hotel and Thelonius Jazz Bar. Asking for a DRY, DRY Martini Cocktail, each and every watering-hole delivered a "half & half" mix of Gin to Vermouth. In two nights it was six for six; postulation proven.

Feeling well justified and seeking comfort after an arduous ordeal, I returned to my haven for Martini Cocktails, the Vienna Restaurant. The owner Paul is Austrian and where he learnt the Classic Dry Martini I cannot say. I’m just thankful he did learn and has taught an efficient bar staff to care for road weary travelers and locals suffering shattered city nerves.

Now here is where “Never say never, never say always!” comes in… recounting the tale of long laborious research, Paul shared with me that the Vienna has its own Martini.

“Oh,” was my reply.

“Yes,” Paul said.

“Dry?”

“Yes.”

“May I have one?”

“Yes.”

He turned to the barman and ordered. As you see Paul is very agreeable and makes things happen in a pleasant way. And he does it all in German, Spanish & English when most people can hardly manage to be polite in one language. Bit of a miracle in itself, is it not?...

The glass, tall and chilled, held a seemingly perfect Dry Martini. However, a small variation had been executed by skewering a Caper rolled in an Anchovy Fillet. I sipped heartily not to be put off at all, as it’s well known that Caper & Anchovy in combination mute one and the other and deliver yet another flavor in fusion. One sip and a new fanatic was born.

Yes, I continue to love the Classic! But I am now a fan of the Ancho-tini, as well! The “Never say never, never say always!” lesson learnt once again! I report to you a humbled man with two Dry Martini favorites to his name. And as is often the case when you put away your prejudice, the world becomes bigger in the end!

Restaurant Vienna

Address: Federico Zuazo #1905

Tel: 244.1660

La Paz, Bolivia

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
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Berry Good (Bramble Liqueur) in the Andes! La Paz, Bolivia

2011-10-16T05:47:00.034-06:00

The rains are early this year. Now that might put a little gloom into a day but it's said that every cloud has it's lining of silver. And the positive here is an abundance of blackberries in the markets. There are even peasant women selling berries out of baskets on the street! You'd love the atmosphere of plenty!

This morning I made Oatmeal Porridge with dark Cane Sugar & Quinoa flakes (deliciously creamy) and the punch is, of coarse, the BLACKBERRIES! Eating local, fresh and in season makes for the best eye opening mornings. And no doubt your mouth will automatically open on it's own just to receive the goodness when a perfectly ripe berry is involved!

The plan for later today is to make Creme de Mures (much like creme de cassis but using blackberries rather than red currants). My approach is simple, pop a whack of washed berries into a large jar pour in enough white lightening or vodka to cover. Using your hand blender puree the fruit into a slurry. Top up with remaining portion of the liter of firewater. Let stand for about three months. Shake whenever it occurs to you. Keep in a cool dark place (under the sink will do). When the time comes strain the potion, then make some Simple Syrup and add for the sweetness you prefer.

Traditionally, this liqueur is made sweet for mixing with dry white wine. You´ll recognize the combination as KIR (Cocktail), awfully nice. And in three months time you'll love yourself, KIR in hand, for planning ahead! No matter gray, heavy skies; there's fun to be had now and later just by putting your berries where your mouth is!

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
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Coffee, Coca & Thee - Los Yungas, Bolivia

2011-10-06T13:24:00.045-06:00

Under a tin-roof in the Bolivian cloud forest, I bought a round. We sat with a cold beer, just me, a few farmers and their wives sipping & chatting on an afternoon of impressive heat. Coca leaves were placed on the table for sharing; leaves that had been grown just up the dirt road. The chatter was predictably about banana, citrus and coffee, the principal crops of this subtropical zone. With a roll of the eyes, there was resigned commentary on the international report that coffee prices have hit a 14-year high. Looking around this little village and at the people who work the coffee plants, you might wonder where all the money is. For these small-scale producers, the topic of coffee means lean profit, hard labor and but one harvest a year. On the other end of the spectrum, the coca plant (which is coming into new prominence in this zone) provides three to four harvests in the same period. The price coca brings is higher than that of coffee and it doesn’t need much care. Harvest, dry and sell; that´s it. A simple process that provides more time in a day to work other crops.

The farmers say coffee is problematic. Good coffee requires nurturing ‘til the dry season when the coffee cherries become red ripe and can be harvested. Yet the cherries don’t ripen all at the same time so you must hand pick only the rubies from the branches, place them in baskets and carry them to processing. Then you continually return to the plants and pick only the red cherries until the year’s harvest is complete.

Now the work has only just begun… In the Yungas, they prefer natural drying which is the oldest method of processing coffee. The pulp of the cherry fruit is cleaned away by hand. Then the beans are spread in a thin layer on patios to be dried in the sun. They must be raked and turned and raked and in three to four weeks they will have dried nicely. From there the beans will be milled, hulled, polished, cleaned & sorted. At this point, the beans are bagged and sold to brokers for export. If destined for the Bolivian market they are then roasted, ground and packaged for local sale and consumption.

As we sipped they chewed their coca leaves. In front of each lay a little pile of discarded bits; the farmers were carefully stripping out the stem and the middle rib reserving only the sweet green leaf. With smiles I received assurance that this was the very best; the small tender Yungas leaf grown for chewing not the coarse, large leaf of the Chapare Region (infamously used for cocaine production). The leisurely conversation took a new turn. Roberto Zabala, secretary general of the Afro-Bolivian community, told me frankly the quotas for growing legal coca have increased since Bolivia's first indigenous President EVO Morales took office in 2006. And that they fully understand that EVO will eventually go and quotas will be lowered. And so they're reluctant to dedicate more land to coca plants even though they now earn more. The pendulum will swing the other way and the balance of coffee and coca and fruit will change once again. The on-going challenge for any person living on the land is to survive the intense sun, periods of heavy rain and even the unpredictable politics. Yet for now, they're happy there’s a little more money for buying children's shoes, for repairing houses and investing in equipment that will make future farm work a little easier. One of the wives said you've got to take the good times with the bad. And times are better. Even so, they're also putting something away for whatever is to come. "Things are going to change," another wife said. “They always do.”

All images by Mick Huerta. Taken in the legal Coca fields of Los Yungas, Bolivia.

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011.
All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
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Stairway to Heaven or Fast Lane to Prison? Route 36 – The Cocaine Bar of La Paz, Bolivia

2011-10-03T07:44:00.045-06:00

Evo Morales took office in 2006 and became Bolivia's first indigenous president. He, himself, is a grower of the Coca leaf and continues as leader of the Coca workers union. The year 2008 saw Morales dismiss the U.S. Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA) and in so doing created a new mood. Though legally speaking, the Bolivian world remains divided into the colors of white and green. It´s a climate of zero tolerance for cocaine (white) and an open heart for the leaf (green). One is gringo and the other native… and between these two extremes there thrives an after-hours disco near the center of the city that unabashedly appeals to the most mischievous yearnings. The world’s first openly cocaine bar, Route 36, is much like any disco anywhere on the planet complete with dancing, trippy lights, florescent cocktails and big bouncers at the door. But here the rules change just a bit. You need a foreign passport to play; no go if you’re Bolivian. The focus is on international tourists that are passing through while packing ample cash. Route 36 offers a blow-out, a once in a lifetime experience to tell friends about back home. Just a little naughty and gone!

And with international currency it really doesn’t cost all that much to play. When you sit down the waiter takes a drinks order and asks about cocaine for the table. At the equivalent of $22 for a high-quality gram, a pleased corporate lawyer commented it was the price of two packs of cigarettes back home in London. His IT manager wife laughed and ordered yet more G&Ts. With cheap cocktails and tall bottles of beer the tables were full of travelers (mostly Euros, Aussies and Kiwis) and little white lines. All were generously buying rounds & powder; spirits running high! Evidently, what happens in La Paz stays in La Paz. Not so unusual considering everyone would be moving on to their respective destinations in a day or two... no one lingers at 3900 meters (12,795 feet).

In recent news (March 2011), the former head of Bolivia's main anti-narcotics unit was busted for smuggling cocaine along with 15 other police officials being detained for complicity. And shortly Bolivia is to withdraw from the UN Convention on Narcotic Drugs. Withdrawal soon goes into effect (January 2012). What that means at street level is absolutely nothing. Not to suggest it’s the wild, wild Andes as there’s always caution to exercise. Even though paying the requisite bribes, Route 36 sporadically shuts down and reopens in a new location to avoid the heat. You might wonder how to find the latest clandestine location? Ask any radio-taxi driver (formal registered taxis, not hacks)! They keep up on developments and, yes, you’ll pay just a little extra for the “on-the-quiet” information but less than $5.00 will easily get you there with companions. Another fiver will return you to your pillow, no matter the hour. And as a tourist in a quiet La Paz hotel room contemplating the light fantastic one may well ask, “Is this a stairway to heaven or the fast lane to prison?” Either, frankly, being a real possibility.

Images taken on the sly as cameras are strickly forbidden.

Website: Route 36

Restaurant Vienna - Best Martini in Bolivia, Perhaps the Best Martini in all of South America - La Paz, Bolivia

2011-09-25T08:51:00.025-06:00

An overwhelming majority of European and Latin American bartenders are under the impression that anyone who asks for a Martini wants a cocktail fashioned mostly from Martini—and Martini & Rossi is the name of a vermouth, no? So for many traveling abroad, it is difficult to find a classic cocktail that fits the bill. I've taught the Dry Martini to countless bartenders in sundry ports of call. All the effort put forward just to enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail, provide another arrow for the barman’s quiver and for the benefit of the next weary traveler in need of a Dry Martini. One must do what one can in order to civilize an otherwise untamed world. The Classic is a mix of gin combined with dry vermouth in a five-to-one ratio. All that froufrou martini crap be damned (appletini, chocotini, etc.). That's all nothing more than candy-coated marketing for the uninitiated. The recipe of choice is really very simple:

Cracked ice

2 1/2 ounces dry gin

1/2 ounce dry vermouth, Martini & Rossi or Noilly Prat

Green olive for garnish

Preparation - In a shaker filled with ice, combine gin and vermouth. Shake well, then strain into a frozen martini glass. Garnish with olive and sip your way into something much more comfortable.

When you arrive in the city of La Paz there’s no need to teach anyone a thing. There is one oasis of cocktail sensibility. Just go to Restaurant Vienna! There the bartenders, admirably, practice the classic and its variations. They even have little onions if you'd prefer to go Gibson. And by the way, the plates and Mousse over fresh berries are fabulous, too!

So perfect is Vienna's Dry Martini that when they ask if I’d care for another, I respond with my grandfather’s maxim; “A bird cannot fly with but one wing!” Cheers!

Restaurant Vienna

Address: Federico Zuazo #1905

Tel: 244.1660

Central City- La Paz, Bolivia

Surprise in Sopocachi! Wedding Bells! - La Paz, Bolivia

2011-09-24T15:42:00.034-06:00

Saturday is a gloriously busy day – it’s the day when the earth’s bounty arrives from the countryside farms and La Paz is alive with maids & mavens marketing, intense negotiations over eggplant and tomatoes. And everywhere there’s the buzz of chefs securing the very best for their clientele... Leaving the Sopocachi market my bags full, I saw a tuxedoed Chef Marco Schiapparoli standing outside of his restaurant “Beatrice Fresh Pastas” which, just across the street, faces the market. Evidently it was his wedding day (streamers and ribbons giving the whole thing away), he was welcoming guests as they arrived. In passing I congratulated him. He took my hand and gripping firmly he ushered me inside although painfully underdressed for the occasion, shopping bags in hand! Obviously, there’s no saying no to an Italian chef on his wedding day! The cake was a huge tiered thing adorning a far wall and the chilled champagne bubbled. Conversation and laughter came from tables manned by her family; no one from his side in attendance. Before you raise an eyebrow, allow me to say the chef has lived twenty-two years happily with the same lovely woman and has four stunningly gorgeous children. Kudos! Not many do better!

He apprised me that the family is soon to travel to Italia for the big church wedding (Latins have a civil ceremony, thereafter, comes the church wedding). “The civil formalities in Bolivia have been excellent but the celebration in Italia is going to be incredible," declared the chef. I can only imagine the glories of a large Italian marriage ceremony and the subsequent celebration. And as Chef Marco & wife have done, one could suppose it perfectly wonderful to first have the beautiful children to fill the positions of flower girls and ring bearer. And as smartly dressed as they were today, honestly, they will be fabulous.

Beyond the obligatory skyscraper Bolivian wedding cake was Chef Marco's Tiramisu! Caray! Say no more! The tiramisu, rich and full, would stand well with most red wines. And in perfect combination, the “Fuzion Shiraz Malbec 2010, Mendoza Argentina” flowed abundantly and the assembled crowd was jubilant. It was a first and quite the surprise to attend a wedding with my shopping bags. But the air seemed lighter and the day had more cheer because the sun shone the first time in days in rainy La Paz. And it’s always a bit of a blessing to take part in the best of times with people who, through shared memories, are becoming very good friends.

None Better - Beatrice Fresh Pasta - La Paz, Bolivia

2011-09-23T12:19:00.035-06:00

Not a lot of frill to Beatrice Fresh Pasta (a casual trattoria in LPB) but the plates are incomparable!!! This is a straight forward artisan's restaurant. And owner/chef Marco Schiapparoli from Milano, Italia knows his craft - artisanal handmade pastas, fresh sauces, imported Italian olive oil and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese! Squisito!

Lasagna, Agnolotti, Ravioli, Cannelloni, Cappalletti, Tagliatelle - so complete is the concentration on pasta, there's not even a salad on the menu! You're a Pasta Fanatic? WELL GOOD! You've found a kindred spirit in Chef Marco! And the prices are surprisingly low...

Beatrice Fresh Pasta! New York, London & Paris would be thrilled to have a spot like this, as well! No other in Bolivia even stands in the same class. And the wine selection is note worthy, too!

Nota bene: Open Lunch & Dinner. Day of Rest - Tuesday.
Beatrice Fresh Pasta - Calle Guachalla, Edificio Nicol, Sopocachi - La Paz, Bolivia.

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011.
All Rights Reserved
mickhuerta@gmail.com
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Glorious Peter - St. Petersburg, Russia

2011-09-19T06:42:00.034-06:00

A few years ago as spent leaves fell fast, I lived a month in Russia with old friends. There good weather in autumn is called Women’s Summer (somewhat like the Indian Summer of North America). And we made good use of warm days traveling nine of eleven time zones that made up this immense country (the zones now have been reduced to ten). The undeniable highlight of the trip was the sparkling city named after Peter the Great! The majority of Russians and anyone familiar with the city just call it Peter, meaning St. Petersburg, Russia.

St. Petersburg was founded on May 16, 1703, when the foundation of the Peter and Paul Fortress was laid. And while you visit glorious Peter you’ll not want to miss the history, architecture and museums. Those who appreciate Russian Arts know that this is the city of Pushkin and Dostoevsky. Many composers/musicians have been residents; including the celebrated Rachmaninoff, Prokofiev, Shostakovich and Rimsky-Korsakov amongst others. The celebrated ballerina Anna Pavlova was born here.

The city’s main boulevard is the forever trendy Nevsky Prospekt, which is 4.5 kilometers (2.8 miles) long. For many residents of Peter, a stroll along this central thoroughfare is bit of a ritual and a prime opportunity to socialize. Also, the extraordinary Hermitage is one of the world’s largest museums, housing more than 3 million works of art featuring the likes of Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Rubens, Matisse and Vincent van Gogh. Paying a visit is a must for anyone who comes to Peter. Fortunately through a tourist office we found Sergei, guide cum former KGB operative. I playfully say this because we stealthily zipped into sites past serpentine lines with a simple greeting to doormen. Being his insouciant self, he apprised us that there was much too much to see between the Hermitage and the majestic Winter Palace, former residence of the tsars. Therefore we had two options, to return every day for five days to cover it all or attend to the highlights in one ambitious day. We chose the latter.

While swooping through a collection that was mind bogglingly first-rate, I stood up close admiring a Raphael painting nose to the brush strokes, so to speak, and asked Sergei about security. He shared that everything had changed since June of 1985, while hanging in the Hermitage Museum, Rembrandt’s Danaë was attacked by an unnamed ‘crackpot’ who threw sulfuric acid on the painting and then slashed it with a blade. We gazed uncomfortably at the still obvious acid stains remaining on the wooden floor. He assured us the painting has been restored and that heightened security is now in place at the doors before you enter, all to protect the art and art lovers in a non-obtrusive way.

Oh, Peter! Peter! So much to do! And you too will be challenged! If you want to make good use of your time, you must keep up the pace! Travel by boat on the canals, Peter is nicknamed the “Venice of the North.” A day trip to the stunning Peterhof Palace and the Grand Cascade is relaxing and rewarding. Visit the emblematic Bronze Horseman Statue, a tribute to Peter the Great. Other sites not to be missed include the Russian Museum and the giant St. Isaac’s Cathedral (101.5 meters - 333 feet in height), the Summer Gardens and the Peter and Paul Fortress which is the burial place of Russian emperors. Then there’s the ballet and classical music concerts in unforgettably lavish venues. No matter if you have 3, 5 or even 12 days, they’ll all be chock-full!

A whirlwind week concluded with a "jacket and tie" Champagnsky Sunday Brunch highlighting dishes like smoked salmon, blinis, caviar and a full array of anything you can imagine along with frozen “Russian Standard” Vodka (Platinum Label). Sunday Brunch is truly an all-out scrumptious event in Peter.

Looking back on it all, Sergei was too right in that there’s much too much to see and do. Honestly, seven days could never have been enough to know the city which clearly justifies all plans to return and make Peter a lifelong friend.

Write your own Jungle Book - with GIN LIMON!

2011-09-14T12:53:00.032-06:00

Traveling tropical zones can produce a thirst that knows no equal. And for many the traditional warm weather remedy Cuba Libre (Rum & Coke) is sweet, sweet, sweet and lends itself to hangovers of university freshmen proportions.

Fortunately in Latin America there are trade agreements with Spain meaning we have LARIOS DRY GIN of Malaga! Larios made according to the "London Dry Gin" method (since 1863), is distilled twice in copper stills using select fruit and aromatic plants inclusive of juniper berries, lemon, bitter oranges, coriander, cinnamon and almonds. It goes down well with any on-the-go lifestyle because Larios is a subtle blend of fruity, floral and spicy flavours which mix nicely with just fresh LIME JUICE. Depending on how rustic your location the ice could be optional, even though I prefer a cube or two.

Some years ago while spending time in Spain, I discovered the Spanish Gin Cocktail of choice - GIN LIMON. And it's rather, rather good!

2 Jiggers of LARIOS GIN
Splash Lime Juice
A Little Sugar to Taste
Splash Sparkling Water
Cubes of Ice

Shake up all ingredients and serve.

The result is refreshing and light. Yet when touring the amazing Amazon wilderness where accommodations can be a little primitive, you'll not find a full bar! And most assuredly, never a tin of tonic water! That's when my little GIN LIMON variation comes in handy.

One bag of Limes
One bag of Ice
One Perfectly Sharp Knife
LARIOS DRY GIN

Mix all ingredients (al gusto) with a few locals and serve. Sprinkle a little sugar to balance sour to sweet if that appeals. Rim the glass with powdered sugar if you're inclined to the froufrou. Or just go comando - you´ve got the knife!

Now its cocktail hour and time to write your own Jungle Book, with LARIOS DRY GIN! Salud!

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
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Altiplano Hats - Bolivia

2011-09-13T06:04:00.007-06:00

I love shooting faces. And here in the Andes the indigenous people detest having their foto taken. Heads spin away at any hint of a camera held in hand. The result is I have a foto series of unique Altiplano tribal hats. I've begun to love hats.

It´s Not Nice to Fool with PachaMama (Mother Nature)!

2011-09-11T18:02:00.015-06:00

A wet September night in an Andean city? That´s all fine and good if not for being well out of season! Really the Andean world is divided into two dynamic times of year. Just two! Only two! Wet & Dry! This side of the equator we, in South American, are now expressing Awti-Pacha (Dry Season/Autumn-Winter) which is followed by Jallu-Pacha (Rainy Season/Spring-Summer). Tonight it rains two months early? I sit drinking Coca Tea peering out a droplet speckled window and wonder what has become of the world. I suppose it best to allow scientists and industrialists to dither over sunspots, weather cycles and global-warming while the rest of us contemplate the impact of antiquated technologies mucking up the planet as it rains in the Andes two months before Jallu-Pacha, the aforementioned rainy season. Umbrella at the ready, I continue to look for a smaller footprint and wait for the day when we all live directly from the sun and wind. Oh, the coming of that liberating day! And wouldn´t it just pissed off a few two legged fossils sporting bad ties?

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
Travel, Culture, Food & Wines

Paila Marina - Chile´s Little Bit o´ Heaven in a Bowl

2011-09-09T14:15:00.016-06:00

A recent trip to Chile continues to inspire many little plates here at home in LPB. And without doubt, I´m really quite happy with fish from Lake Titicaca and the rivers of Bolivia. But one offering that stands out like a beacon from Pacific coastal waters is Paila Marina (Chilean Seafood Soup). This I´ve eaten from Patagonia to Arica and truly love, love, love it in all its forms! When south of the equator keep an eye out for it. It´s one of the most delectable soups of the sea... and it´ll redefine your idea of heaven in a bowl.

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
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Restaurant Maracuya - Arica, Chile

2011-09-06T10:19:00.048-06:00

Some days lead to perfect evenings and a meal augmented by friends, wine and a sunset that defines the exquisite. Most recently at Restaurant Maracuya in Arica, Chile I was given the gift of such an evening; bold, beautiful and blazing.

We were impressed with the location right on the Pacific; pounding sea, light music and soft lighting were accentuated by the final moments of brazen rays. The Terra Andina Sauvignon Blanc flowed copiously. The Carpaccio of Salmon and Oyster was attractively served with capers, lemon juice, locally produced Azapa Olive Oil and the juice of oyster. The main plates were Albacore a la Veracruzana and Congrio with Tapenade. The thick tuna steak was classically treated in the Veracruz, Mexico style by marinating the fish in lime juice and seasonings, seared beautifully (raw at the center as per request) and topped with a fresh red sauce highlighted with Azapa Green Olives. The Congrio with Tapenade was astonishing. If you´ve never had Conger Eel, you´re in for a treat and the seared version at Restaurant Maracuya is one of the best. The tapenade (a combination of Azapa Olives, capers and anchovies) was rich and added nicely to the dish. We asked for two small extra plates, the mains were so good it was obligatory to share. Also, no surprise to see that the chef had made good use of the local olives being that the Azapa Valley fruit is flavourful, fleshy with a thin, delicate skin; sumptuous characteristics that make this olive easy to enjoy.

I am not much of one for desserts but a Crème Bavarois in the Atacama Desert warranted attention. Crème Bavarois is a cold dessert of egg custard with gelatine and cream. This version was heavy on the gelatine, not much to my liking; however, it was topped with a Maracuya (Passion Fruit) Sauce so appealing we asked for a serving in a teacup with two spoons. Over the top delicioso!

For maximum enjoyment at Restaurant Maracuya, I suggest a sunset rendezvous. Might as well look to Mama Nature for all she has to offer. But with service this good you´ll feel pampered anytime of day.

Nota bene: We found the white wine a little warm (best at 45-50 °F or 7-10 °C). And when white is served warm it tends to be unbalanced and has an alcohol edge. Nonetheless, the situation was easily remedied with a bucket containing ice, cold water and salt to effect a fast chill. Chilling your own wine at table really slows down consumption and, no doubt, lowers sales (owners please take note).

Restaurant Maracuya
Av. Comandante San Martín 0321
restaurantmaracuya@hotmail.com
www.restaurantmaracuya.cl
http://www.frommers.com/destinations/arica/D64499.html

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Travel, Culture, Food & Wines