Even big cities rife with daily sounds of car theft alarms and overbearing traffic noise can provide an occasional surprise. Just before first light, early morn, cold fingers of cloud gripped this high altitude Andean city. Not quite yet awake, strains of Pavarotti singing Nessun Dorma (None Shall Sleep) filtered above the rooftops, faint and beguiling it wafted as a godsend. I lifted my head and cocked an ear, then rose from the featherbed to draw the curtains and open windows to better hear. In damp morning haze, a neighbour had bestowed a sonorous gift. I smiled at this Latin city and mouthed the words, "Mil Gracias" (a thousand thanks) to a person I shall never meet. For truly this offering, a musical generosity so freely given has changed my day...
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