Big Eats, Big Meats and the Dancing Divine!

Carnival!!! This is a time of devils, arcangels and morenos perfecting their steps for the upcoming Carnival Celebration (March 4-8, 2011) on the alitplano (high plains) of Bolivia. The parade route winds 4 kilometres through Oruro´s city streets and will require a marathon of 2 1/2 hours of syncronized dancing to complete. At an altitude of 12.159 ft (3.708 m) this is no small feat! These are the Ensayos (the practise sessions) that build stamina in the participants and anticipation in the community at large. It´s truly spectacular the way these dancers with full brass band can stop traffic. It´s only just begun and now this is to happen each and every weekend culminating in the Carnival event itself!

On the way out of town after a full weekend, we looked for something to eat. Just opposite the bus terminal are 6-7 fried chicken kiosks. I asked "When did you fry the pollo?" "This morning, it´s fresh!" came the reply. However it being 4pm, the chicken on display appeared withered and cold. Not appetising and perhaps not even safe. I put the question to each and every vendor, same answer all. By flicker of good fortune, I looked up a cross street. There was a big man standing in front of an enormous smoking grill! A simple sign proclaimed:

PARRILLADA GORDO´S! (Fat Man´s Grill)

What a find! A full variety of meats, ribs and chicken, everything freshly grilled as you watch. The take-away bundles were just a little more expensive (USD$2.50) than the kiosk offerings, however, at "Gordo´s" each order contains a steaming portion of cheese-rice (a Bolivian specialty), fried plantains and potatoes along with your choice of meats and/or chicken. The owner/cook "Gordo" is from the scorched Southeast of this country and he cooks that sweltering low-land, traditional South American style (churrascuria/rodizio) common to Latin cow country.

Spending time with Gordo is the sort of pleasant surprise we all look for when travelling, good food and warm hospitality being succour for the soul. We four were thrilled; I suspect any trekker would be! Carnival season or not!

Open 6pm ´til late
Sunday midday ´til late

Parrillada Gordo´s
Aroma B Street between Ave 6 de Agosto & Backovic Street
Calle Caro entre Ave 6 de Agosto y Calle Backovic
Oruro, Bolivia
Tel: 527.1084

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.

Fiesta de Alasitas - La Paz, Bolivia

Of the many festivals in the Andes, one is venerated as the celebration of hope and abundance. This is the ancient Fiesta of Alacitas. Though first officially sanctioned in 1781, the roots are to be found deep in the native peoples of Lake Titicaca. At present the highest concentration of enthusiasts is to be found in the city of La Paz, Bolivia. In busy days of preparation participants scurry to purchase miniature objects then implore the Aymara deity “Ekeko” through the solicitations of black-robed priests & yatiris (shamans) to convert the miniatures into the real thing!

On the first day (Jan. 24th) of this multiple week festival, many attend a Morning Mass with their miniatures. The objects are varied and express the needs of the celebrants. They range from work tools to a university degree a worried student is toiling to achieve, a little store whose income would stabilize a family, a stove for ease of cooking or most anything worth praying for. Upon leaving, there is a line of yatiris with smoking braziers on the church steps who through muttered ceremony strengthen the requests chanted inside.

Participants move then to fairgrounds where yet more Yatiris and other spell-casters offer their services along with food vendors, sellers of bric-a-brac and balloons, hawkers of all sorts. Now the deeply felt becomes cause for fiesta. Families stroll up the fairway with babies and grandparents in tow; teenagers check out one another while playing Foosball meantime youngsters play and laugh chewing on their cobs of corn. In the crowd I asked a young boy carrying a statue what his Ekeko was for. He responded with a twinkle, "For good luck and for a good future." His smile was radiant and his eyes shiny and clear. And I couldn’t help but think his future would surely be bright.

I don't know a more pronounced melding of the native with the Christian. This is syncretism (fusion of differing systems of belief) lived and demonstrated in open, full and modern terms. One faith is old, the other even more ancient. Both bolster a people as they face the unknown and uncertain. There can be no gesture more human than this. In all the smoke the shiny little boy asked me, “What do you hope for?” Well, my hopes are simple. I wish that every participant receives what they desire and that each may be made whole. I beseech any and all gods who might be listening. And I shall return to ask for the very same...

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. Text & Fotos by Mick Huerta. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wines!

Divisadero by Michael Ondaatje (pub. 2007)

When traveling a book is constant companion, at times salvation and most often therapy when best laid plans go bad. With this frame of mind, I always need a few close at hand. And so as fail safe, I bought Divisadero in Bucharest late last year while waitiiiiiiiiiing for a flight to Istanbul. But between logistics of Mediterrean travel, packing up a life in North America and moving south of the equator, the book long remained at the bottom of deep luggage. Upon landing at El Alto (LPB) one of the highest international airports in the world (13,325 ft - 4,061.5 m) and being faced with days of adjusting to altitude, I finally took pause to began Divisadero. Most would be familiar with his 1992 bestseller, The English Patient, book and/or movie. From that success, you´ll recognize Ondaatje´s dreamy artful story telling crafted of stark drama and imagery. This, his most recent tale, is wrapped in poetry and philosophy and big movement balanced with private truths that will keep you tethered ´til the last page. I even read the acknowledgements as insight to a good read. A great way to adjust to new beginnings. I believe you´ll like it, too.

© Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.

Sometimes a Papaya!

Having received an invitation to a late lunch, I went to scout ingredients in our neighbourhood market in La Paz, Bolivia. I thought discovery should dictate my dish and that really was my only guide for the morning. At one of my favorite kiosks I found the perfect Papaya, or rather it found me. Silvia, a vender, holding aloft a ripe orange-yellow sphere said ¨This Papaya is estupenda today. Tomorrow, no.¨ Her all-knowing look won me. To cut it lengthwise and scoop the ripe flesh left me with two fruit bowls and two opportunities to delight my hostess and her guests. The salads to fill the papaya halves came together with little effort and the list of ingredients isn´t overly exotic if Papaya is in season where you cook. However, if the sky is gray at your house think Papaya, one or the other of these salads will change your outlook on life!

1 - Ensalada del Lago y Selva (Salad from the Lake & Jungle)

PAPAYA cubed
Flaked Trout (from Lake Titicaca or the lake nearest you)
Red Bell Pepper
Cucumber cubed
Roma Tomato cubed
Onion diced
Light Vinaigrette w/Lime Juice
Chop of Parsley
Mince of garlic
Salt/Pepper

2 - Ensalada Yucateca (Yucatan Salad)

PAPAYA cubed
Chicken cubed
Cucumber cubed
Avocado cubed
Chop of Cilantro (or parsley for the cilantro adverse)
Onion diced
Honey & Lime Juice added to your preferred vinaigrette
Salt/Pepper
Dusting of Chile Powder (optional)

Toss all respective ingredients well and serve in the Papaya halves that have been brushed inside (when first cut) with lime juice to prevent discoloring. The added bonus, fewer dishes to wash! Also, favorite bread sticks or crispy baguette are a perfect accompaniment ...

Sometimes it takes a Papaya to ignite your passion for all things culinary and even brighten your world! Bon Appetit or as we say in Latin America, Bien Provecho!

P.S. A crisp white will complete the offering!

© Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.

Illimani the Golden Eagle!

The name ¨Illimani¨ comes from the Aymara people and means ¨Golden Eagle.¨ It is a befitting title for the highest mountain (21,200 ft/6900m) in the Cordillera Real which lies (16 390S; 67 470W) just south of the city of La Paz, Bolivia. For those of us who live here, Illimani is both landmark and companion. The city is defined by it´s presence and it´s caps of snow, more aptly described as high-altitude tropical glaciers. Quite literally, there is not a day that goes by without Pacenos (residents of La Paz) looking up to catch a glimpse of Illimani and not feeling better for having the city accompanied by a consort of such magnitude. Jallalla!

© Photo by: Mick Huerta 2011 mickhuerta@gmail.com 
All Rights Reserved