The State of Mexican Food

Over the weekend, a recent arrival to Utah asked all BBQ guests in attendance “Where can I find real, authentic Mexican food in Salt Lake City?” In a flurry came suggestions from mom-and-pop locations to slick joints that dot the entire valley. I merely asked, “Where are you from?” “Colorado!” “So you’re looking for Colorado-Mex then?” “No, just authentic Mexican!”

Umm, authentic? Traveling Mexico teaches us that much like France or Italy all food is regional. So there can be no one authentic expression of a nation’s food, ever. No matter how hard we try to make a cliché out of a stereotype, you’ll not eat authentic. Yes it’s true that spaghetti, Quiche Lorraine and spring rolls are good starting points. But eating a cliché is not going to get you closer to what a cuisine is all about. Four thousand years of Chinese culinary history represented by day-glow Sweet & Sour Chicken is a disappointment. The Greeks, who taught the Mediterranean how to cook, really do offer much more than a Gyro (yeero). And Japan’s kitchen is undoubtedly more than a California Roll, etc.

Ponder Tex-Mex border fusion, then New Mexico’s mix of Spain, Mexico and indigenous sensibilities and then quickly skip to light, calorie conscience Cali-Mex. From the United States of Mexico to the USA, every plate is transformed into what the customer is willing to buy and happily consume. The story of a local Mexican restaurateur comes to mind who sold two Carnitas plates to-go. In the parking lot, the customers opened the containers and came storming back to complain about disgusting lumps of fat which turned out to be beautifully cooked plantain to pair with pork. One culture to the next, all foods must be translated or at least explained. Perhaps the above fiasco is an example of being all too authentic?

Continuing with the inquiry I asked, “What’s your favorite Mexican food?” “A Smothered Burrito! In Durango they do them the best!” “Man, have I got a restaurant for you! La Frontera is the bomb and they've several locations!” My brother, Joe Huerta, added his new funky fave is Chunga’s 180 S.900 West. Other’s felt free to share, too; Red Iguana! Tres Hombres on Highland Drive, taco carts downtown! Taco Time! TACO TIME? Came a reaction of genuine surprise.  “Ah, those crispy-fried bean burritos are killer!”

Lesson here is that if you enjoy it, it’s well worth sitting down and enjoying it to the fullest. No matter the version or from what state in the U.S. or Mexico it hails. One point of caution; Best to carry your own hot sauce cuz’ anything that you can squeeze out of a fast-food packet is not salsa! Asi es, amigos mios!

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Copyright © Mick Huerta 2014. All Rights Reserved. 
mickhuerta@gmail.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food, Wine!

Photo credits -
Achiote paste ingredients: Paul Goyette - http://www.flickr.com/photos/pgoyette/101147378/

"Tortas Oaxaquenas" by nsaum75 / Wikimedia Commons
GrilledChickenZaachila: AlejandroLinaresGarcia

Sweet Dreams - Bill & Nada’s Cafe SLC, Ut

On a hot desert afternoon she was in love with her car and insisted on driving. Flying in the top down convertible I saw a street person I had spoken with many times. She liked the idea so we stopped and gathered him up on the way to Bill & Nada’s, a now gone iconic Salt Lake City cafe/diner we both enjoyed but had not visited together. Our guest was withdrawn as we looked over the menu. Noticing the wariness we assured him that he should order anything that appealed simply let the waitress know. As it was one of our very first dates we lightheartedly decided on big omelets, fries, plenty of red Tabasco and long neck bottles of impossibly cold beer. In humble fashion he ordered an inexpensive combo and a glass of water, we attempted to put him at ease. The water and beer arrived right away, sipping we laughed about everything and nothing while waiting for our plates of classic Americana.

“Excuse me. Off to the men’s, won’t be a moment.”

Upon my return a stern face stared through me.

“Let’s go!” she insisted curtly.
“Really?”
“Yes! Now!”

We paid the cashier in silence leaving my street friend in the booth eyes downcast staring at three untouched plates. Alone in the car she explained that our companion had mumbled like a madman over and over all he wanted to eat was her. Tires squealed on asphalt as we pulled away.

“What did you say?”
“I told him to shut up or I’d kill him.”
“Bravo.” …was my only response.

We sped off into the heat, wind in our hair accompanied by Patsy Cline singing Sweet Dreams (of you). Fortunately, we were en route to find sustenance & redemption at the Red Iguana.

(Bill and Nada´s Cafe closed Dec. 20, 1999 after the death of William "Bill" McHenry, Aug. 6, 1999)
Photo credit: Ravel Call

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011.
All Rights Reserved.
Travel, Culture, Food & Wine!

RED IGUANA - 1,2,3!!!

My dear friend Helen called from her office in Manhattan. She was frustrated that there is so little good Mexican food in the Big Apple! She had just lunched at a new place that promised the flavors of Mexico and delivered frou-frou nothingness on a plate. "Could you, please, just overnight some Mole Poblano from the Red Iguana." she cried over the phone. It was her plea (albeit tongue in cheek) that prompted me to think about my attachment to the Cardenas family and the Red Iguana.

My love of the Red Iguana began decades ago with the first location on 3rd West in Salt Lake City. Ramon Cardenas Jr. served patrons while his parents, Maria and Ramon Sr., conjured up their signature dishes. Sadly that restaurant burnt to the ground but precipitated the move to the current flagship location on North Temple. I met Ramon Jr. in the studios of community radio station KRCL above the Blue Mouse Cinema where we both were DJs in the ‘80s. I subsequently met Lucy Cardenas, his sister, on the campus of the University of Utah. She was then and still is incredibly vivacious and dynamic.

My family, the Huertas, and the Cardenas family would go on to become friends. Over the years, we have shared many experiences and have many tales to tell. They range from Ramon Jr. and my brother Roberto traveling with me through Mexico by bus; to making and eating Pizza Neapolitana with Lucy and her husband Bill in the home of my brother Joe; to the Red Iguana Employee Halloween Pumpkin-Carving Contest where I was the judge for years. The contestants took part in an activity that (unbeknownst to everyone) was part of their cultural acclimation to the USA; or watching the Oscars with Lucy and Ramon Sr. at the old Cardenas family cabin. The evening punctuated by catered foods and fresh margaritas from the Red Iguana.

All the stories flavor our past and our present. And I just don’t know how to separate the people from the food. Passion, big flavors, wonderful aromas and the ever present phrase "Please, be careful the plate is hot!" I believe the adjectives qualify both, food and the people. I will always enjoy the Red Iguana #1 at 736 West North Temple, Salt Lake City, UT, where after their respective shows we hung out with Santana, Los Lobos and the Paladins. Yet I’ve come to love Red Iguana #2 at 866 W South Temple, Salt Lake City, UT, same great food but a Choo-Choo train runs through it or rather right outside the front door. Just like the little boy at the next table who asked; “Daddy, when’s the train coming?” I have the same sense of anticipation while I have a meal and keep an eye out for the train. I made a point of going to the "Taste of the Red Iguana" (#3) at 28 South State Street, Salt Lake City, UT. The menu is shorter and the food faster but it redefines having something quick to eat in a mall. Nothing better!

Family, food, friends and fun - These are the things I associate with the Red Iguana. Pick a location. Bring your friends and family and expect to make memories. You’ll not be disappointed! Unlike my friend Helen in NYC (who doesn't have Red Iguana 1,2 or 3!).

Photo #1 courtesy of Michael Roberts

RED IGUANA 2

Red Iguana 2 is a triumph! Everything you've loved about the original location but now they have a (choo-choo) train running just outside the front door! Very cool!