The State of Mexican Food

Over the weekend, a recent arrival to Utah asked all BBQ guests in attendance “Where can I find real, authentic Mexican food in Salt Lake City?” In a flurry came suggestions from mom-and-pop locations to slick joints that dot the entire valley. I merely asked, “Where are you from?” “Colorado!” “So you’re looking for Colorado-Mex then?” “No, just authentic Mexican!”

Umm, authentic? Traveling Mexico teaches us that much like France or Italy all food is regional. So there can be no one authentic expression of a nation’s food, ever. No matter how hard we try to make a cliché out of a stereotype, you’ll not eat authentic. Yes it’s true that spaghetti, Quiche Lorraine and spring rolls are good starting points. But eating a cliché is not going to get you closer to what a cuisine is all about. Four thousand years of Chinese culinary history represented by day-glow Sweet & Sour Chicken is a disappointment. The Greeks, who taught the Mediterranean how to cook, really do offer much more than a Gyro (yeero). And Japan’s kitchen is undoubtedly more than a California Roll, etc.

Ponder Tex-Mex border fusion, then New Mexico’s mix of Spain, Mexico and indigenous sensibilities and then quickly skip to light, calorie conscience Cali-Mex. From the United States of Mexico to the USA, every plate is transformed into what the customer is willing to buy and happily consume. The story of a local Mexican restaurateur comes to mind who sold two Carnitas plates to-go. In the parking lot, the customers opened the containers and came storming back to complain about disgusting lumps of fat which turned out to be beautifully cooked plantain to pair with pork. One culture to the next, all foods must be translated or at least explained. Perhaps the above fiasco is an example of being all too authentic?

Continuing with the inquiry I asked, “What’s your favorite Mexican food?” “A Smothered Burrito! In Durango they do them the best!” “Man, have I got a restaurant for you! La Frontera is the bomb and they've several locations!” My brother, Joe Huerta, added his new funky fave is Chunga’s 180 S.900 West. Other’s felt free to share, too; Red Iguana! Tres Hombres on Highland Drive, taco carts downtown! Taco Time! TACO TIME? Came a reaction of genuine surprise.  “Ah, those crispy-fried bean burritos are killer!”

Lesson here is that if you enjoy it, it’s well worth sitting down and enjoying it to the fullest. No matter the version or from what state in the U.S. or Mexico it hails. One point of caution; Best to carry your own hot sauce cuz’ anything that you can squeeze out of a fast-food packet is not salsa! Asi es, amigos mios!

“Facebook it, Tweet it, Pin It, Blog it; Share it with the world!”

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2014. All Rights Reserved. 
mickhuerta@gmail.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food, Wine!

Photo credits -
Achiote paste ingredients: Paul Goyette - http://www.flickr.com/photos/pgoyette/101147378/

"Tortas Oaxaquenas" by nsaum75 / Wikimedia Commons
GrilledChickenZaachila: AlejandroLinaresGarcia

Rainy Day Morning at it's Best!

Few things thrill on a wet, rainy morning like breakfast. And being it's a slow go in the cold I suggest you fuel the day with a bountiful Beaner's Breakfast. Simple, fast and little clean-up afterward makes this savory power starter just the thing. Hot beans are put in a bowl; topped with an egg poached in a Tomato/Green Chile Coulis. Meanwhile warm your favorite tortillas to complete the feast. I prefer a crumble of corn chips on top for added crunch... yummy.

Now you're ready to take on a day. And by the way, this breakfast goes nicely with an umbrella!

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2012. All Rights Reserved.
http://mickhuerta.blogspot.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wines! 

Crisp Tostada & Succulent Ceviche

When appetite is sparked by the light, fresh, quick and inexpensive, be assured, you can be satisfied. And perfectly it all can be done at El Paisa taco cart on State Street in Salt Lake City, UT. There are many such carts on corners throughout the city but one, just one is owned by two brothers (Julio and Felipe) from a town on the Pacific Coast of Mexico. Being boys who have grown up in a village facing the sea they know fish and Ceviche. Unlike other street carts (owned principally by Nortenos, meaning big meat), they bring their knowledge of Ceviche to this little Utah town. Oh, you can get the big meat at El Paisa too, but it's not greasy. Being fish lovers, all items offered are fresh, clean and not heavy. And after an informal survey, they are the only street vendors who serve CEVICHE in SLC. Now my question is that if I were to bring a good white wine in a sippy cup could I reach seafood Nirvana right there on the corner of 9th South and State Street? Or if I ordered "to go", I think I might get rather close. And so can you and we'll see you there soon.

RED IGUANA 2

Red Iguana 2 is a triumph! Everything you've loved about the original location but now they have a (choo-choo) train running just outside the front door! Very cool!

Cactus salad - Ensalada de Nopalitos

This is truly one of the easiest recipes when using the Nopal Cactus from the bottle. However, if not highly practiced the preparation of raw Nopal paddles into edible strips can be a prickly proposition. The process entails using great care, a sharp knife and a pair of stout gloves to remove all spines (espinas), cutting and par-boiling the ribbons. Once cooled and you've undertaken the pickling process proceed directly to the recipe below! Or do as my grandmother Tomasa did simply resort to prepared cactus from the bottle available at any Mexican market.

Cactus Salad

One cup of Nopal Cactus or more
2 tomatoes, diced
1 onion, diced
Radish, julienne
Fresh cilantro

Simple Vinaigrette
Olive oil or vegetable oil if you prefer
Red wine vinegar
Dried oregano
Salt & pepper al gusto

My little twist on the traditional is to add Julienned Jicama for additional crunch. I finish the salad with fresh lime juice for a light bright flavor! This is a perfect "All Accordin" recipe in that you just add more of any ingredient that pleases you or leave out what doesn't. Yet another twist I find expressly thrilling is the use of Prickly Pear Fruit Jelly in making the vinaigrette - infusing yet more Cactus flavor, cactus to cactus if you like. Also, it's easy to add crisp Romaine Lettuce and crumbly Queso Ranchero (Ranch Cheese) to modernize this salad so well loved in the hot, dry north of Mexico.

Tamales; Red, Green or with Rajas

Every SATURDAY at 10am, a Mexican family (husband and wife - Rey & Emperatriz) arrives at the Super Bodega in SLC, UT to sell fresh handmade tamales (they're up all Friday night cooking). When presented with the steaming pots there are a few choices to make: cheese, chicken or pork, also, corn husk or banana leaf. Top your selection with the fresh Green Salsa (not really picante but packs big flavor with a mince of cilantro, red onion and garlic). After eating your fill, visit the bodega to buy a large variety of vegetables at wholesale prices. You'll never need to pay retail supermarket prices, again! Best avocado prices anywhere!

This is one of those moments where you wonder how you were transported to another country and another time. Welcome to Mexico, would you like some mango juice to finish your meal? The Super Bodega, 6th South 6th West, SLC UT

El Molcajete - Rancho Market, UT

A Molcajete is a Mexican lava stone mortar & pestle. However, there is another meaning to molcajete that spells great dining. A typical Mexican dish of the same name is served in this traditional kitchen tool. The mortar or base is turned upside down on an open flame in order to heat the stone. Once glowing hot the mortar is turned right side up and filled with a sizzle and spatter of salsa, Oaxaca cheese (similar to mozzarella), roasted jalapenos and cactus paddles, shrimp, beef and chicken, then topped with Mexican fresh ranch cheese. Included are fresh tortillas, rice, beans and a wide range of condiments. For a great local version of the Molcajete visit the Rancho Market, 2470 So Redwood Road West Valley City, UT 84119. Serving from 7am to 9pm, the market and their restaurant are an experience unto themselves. It's much like arriving in Mexico without having to pack, hassle with security or have your passport stamped. There's nothing better, nothing more authentic and nothing tastier. Oh, better bring a few big hungry friends, the portions are HUGE!

At times one trout poses a problem. Not enough for guests and possibly too much for one's self. Solution? Side dishes that fill the plate, round out the presentation and tease the palate. Pick up the phone and call someone intriguing. Eating alone has never been appealing (no matter how often it's done). Put fresh cut flowers on the table (best if from the garden, so as not to dent the wallet). Light a candle. ¡Caray!, it's a dinner party. Who knew?

As for the bev, I find a full flavored white (low or no oak) will go with about anything except strong flavored meats and red with low tannins will go with anything including fish. I give you a foto of one trout for two, Mexican style, and a few wines that will enhance your dining pleasure.

Wine suggestion: Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio, Albarino, Tempranillo, also the ever versatile Shiraz