GOOD MORNING SUNSHINE!

The oranges, mango, bananas and avocados have arrived in the city! Fruit seems to be everywhere. And the Rodriguez Farmer's Market is popping with color, activity and eager shoppers... Straight from the fields and nearby tropical zone, the farmers' markets are one of the oldest methods of marketing by small farmers directly to the people. And that's certainly true in La Paz, Bolivia. The freshest produce is always to be found first right here and it's a joy to be in the hussle bussle! And the oranges are 25 for $1.80! Okay, I'll take 50! So there is to be fresh squeezed juice every morning, smoothies, Crepes Suzette, Canard a l'Orange, Sicilian Granita, Caribbean Rice cooked with Coco & O.J., savory reduction sauces and... come to think of it, I'll take 100! And next week I'll take on the mangoes.

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2013. All Rights Reserved. 
mickhuerta@gmail.com 
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More than One Way to Skin a Trout!

A fishmonger in a landlocked country? Well, take into consideration that nearby Lake Titicaca is the largest freshwater lake in South America and is, also, the world’s highest navigable lake. Situated at 3,810 m above sea level, the lake nutures king-fish, mauri, the boga, suche, ispy and carachi.

Helping me wade through the options, Lidia is my fishmonger in the Rodriguez Farmer´s Market of La Paz, Bolivia. Even though young, she´s been at it years. Taught the business by her mother, the pair continue to work side-by-side selling a full variety of lake fishes al fresco. Most popular are the trout which were introduced in 1939. 

Lidia makes it look easy to skin a trout and her skill amazes me everytime. She advises that without gloves it´s impossible. I prefer to think it´s just impossible and leave it to the professionals... Simply select a fish and in moments it´s boned, skinned and wrapped to go... destined for great things like lemon and cilantro and a glass of white (Cousiño-Macul Sauvignon Gris).
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Copyright © Mick Huerta 2013. All Rights Reserved. 
 mickhuerta@gmail.com 
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Giving Thanks...

Even big cities rife with daily sounds of car theft alarms and overbearing traffic noise can provide an occasional surprise. Just before first light, early morn, cold fingers of cloud gripped this high altitude Andean city. Not quite yet awake, strains of Pavarotti singing Nessun Dorma (None Shall Sleep) filtered above the rooftops, faint and beguiling it wafted as a godsend. I lifted my head and cocked an ear, then rose from the featherbed to draw the curtains and open windows to better hear. In damp morning haze, a neighbour had bestowed a sonorous gift. I smiled at this Latin city and mouthed the words, "Mil Gracias" (a thousand thanks) to a person I shall never meet. For truly this offering, a musical generosity so freely given has changed my day...

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2013. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
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Alasitas 2013 - Jan. 24th

January 24th kicks off the Feria de Alasitas. This is a celebration of abundance that comes at Jallu
Pacha (time of the rains) when the altiplano pops with vibrant green! It's a time of hope and promise when priests, shamans and deeply felt Aymara culture come together to define the wishes/desires of an individual or family. Miniatures are bought of groceries, houses and most anything else and through the incantations of spiritual leaders the Aymara God "Ekeko" is asked to make the objects real. The festival goes on for about a month right in the center of the city of La Paz!

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2013. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
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Reading the Sky! - Coroico, Los Yungas, Bolivia

This image was captured in the Yungas Cloud Forest. A young woman caught unawares reading in the sky... if only I knew the title! I'd love to read the book that enthralled her so completely as to mute all else in the world. What supreme serenity yet in the same token, what an other worldly place to read at the bottom of Bolivia's Death Road. - clique once on image to enlarge.

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2012. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
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Sancho Panza Succeeds Again! - La Paz, Bolivia

Restaurant Sancho Panza in La Paz continually endeavors to bring the Spanish Table to South America. And in that noble effort, this most recent offering is simply stunning! Huevos Rotos (Broken Eggs)!

This is one of those plates mamas in Madrid make weekly. Fast, easy and sums up being greater than it's parts. Yet any wet blanket could flippantly insist that this is ham & eggs with fried potatoes, a dish common world over. Admittedly yes, more or less.

A chef worth his salt would attest that "it's not what you do but how you do it." And the Madrileños (residents of Madrid) have combined uncomplicated ingredients and made true alchemy. Then Restaurante Sancho Panza gives an inspired twist with a timbal (mold) & applies a free hand with glorious Serrano Ham, a dusting of Smoked Paprika and the result rendered us mum. With our mouths full we contemplated this sublime fusion of ingredients. My companion commented she'd never had anything quite so good and added it was a complete surprise that simplicity could lead to such a pinnacle dining experience. In ensuing conversation, we thought this same recipe would be fabulous with Smoked Salmon, as well. But that would require a departure from tradition and a different wine than the smooth Bolivian Red, Aranjuez Terruño, that we sipped contentedly.

Pablo Zárate Osuna (Madrileño/chef/owner) has the sensibilities to achieve these little triumphs on a plate. Bravo Don Pablo! Restaurante Sancho Panza succeeds once again in the Sopocachi neighborhood of La Paz, Bolivia!

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2012. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
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Stairway to Heaven or Fast Lane to Prison? Route 36 – The Cocaine Bar of La Paz, Bolivia

Evo Morales took office in 2006 and became Bolivia's first indigenous president. He, himself, is a grower of the Coca leaf and continues as leader of the Coca workers union. The year 2008 saw Morales dismiss the U.S. Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA) and in so doing created a new mood. Though legally speaking, the Bolivian world remains divided into the colors of white and green. It´s a climate of zero tolerance for cocaine (white) and an open heart for the leaf (green). One is gringo and the other native… and between these two extremes there thrives an after-hours disco near the center of the city that unabashedly offers cocaine by the gram. The world’s first openly cocaine bar, Route 36, is much like any disco anywhere on the planet complete with dancing, trippy lights, funky cocktails and big bouncers at the door. But here the rules change just a bit. You need a foreign passport to play; no go if you’re Bolivian. The focus is on international tourists that are passing through while packing ample cash. Route 36 offers a blow-out, a once in a lifetime experience to share back home. Just a little naughty and gone!

And with international currency it really doesn’t cost much to play. When you sit down the waiter takes a drinks order and asks about cocaine for the table. At the equivalent of $22 per gram, a pleased corporate lawyer commented it was 'round the price of two packs of cigarettes home in London. His IT manager wife laughed and ordered yet more Gin Tonics. With cheap cocktails and tall bottles of beer the tables were full of travelers (mostly Euros, Aussies and Kiwis) drawing little white lines. All were generously buying rounds and powder; spirits running high! Evidently, what happens in La Paz stays in La Paz. Not so unusual considering everyone would be moving on in a day or two... no one lingers at 3,650 meters (11,975 ft).

In March 2011, the former head of Bolivia's main anti-narcotics unit was busted for smuggling cocaine along with 15 other police officials being detained for complicity. Shortly thereafter Bolivia withdrew from the UN Convention on Narcotic Drugs. What that means at street level is absolutely nothing. Not to suggest it’s the wild, wild Andes as there’s always caution to exercise. Route 36 sporadically shuts down and reopens in a new location to avoid the heat. You might wonder how to find the latest clandestine location? Ask any radio-taxi driver (formal registered taxis, not hacks)! They keep up on developments and, yes, you’ll pay just a little extra for “on-the-quiet” information but less than $5.00 will easily get you there with companions. Another fiver will return you to your pillow, no matter the hour. And as a tourist in a quiet La Paz hotel room contemplating the light fantastic one may well ask, “Is this a stairway to heaven or the fast lane to prison?” Either, frankly, being a real possibility.

Cameras are prohibited, therefore, these images were taken on the sly.
For Mick Huerta's books - http://www.amazon.com/Mick-Huerta/e/B00MDG6UXK

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
Travel, Culture, Food & Wine!

Dancing with Pacha Mama - La Paz, Bolivia

Every region has its own little twist on dance and song and within each region there are village variables that speak to the unique experience of the locale. If on the Altiplano (high plains), the dazzling sun will speed the rhythm. If on a mountain slope and the morning sun arrives late and leaves early, the cold will leave a chilled mark on the tone of a village’s declaration of self. These differences tell a tale of life lived on a personal level in relation to earth and sky and embody folk expression in a land of contrasts. ¡Jallalla Bolivia!

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
Travel, Culture, Food & Wines

We Demand Respect! Gay Pride Parade - La Paz, Bolivia

In a country where anything outside the norm is met with derision, Bolivia´s 2011 Gay Pride Parade running right through the center of La Paz went off more like a community event. Entire families were out, small children sat curbside to get an eye full of the rainbow flags & costumes while Bolivians of all stripes jumped into the parade route to get their  photo taken with their favorite Drag-Queen! With a background of rockets, everyone simply loved the transvestites outfitted in traditional Cholita garb (pictured above)! As an expression of solidarity with LGBT (lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgender) community; the occasion was fun, festive and rather tame in comparison with the wild celebratory parades of Amsterdam & Rio de Janeiro! But amidst the smiles and applause there was no other place this crowd wanted to be. Billboards, stickers, posters and the banners on many floats proclaimed this year’s theme of “Like you… We demand respect.” And last night they got it! However on this brillant sunshiny morning after last night's wonderfully successful event, the struggle for respect continues.

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved. mickhuerta@gmail.com 
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Sip into Something More Comfortable!

A Fish Fumet and a Mushroom Fumet are base to many of my signature international soups. In La Paz I use Sabalo, a South American river fish found principally in Argentina, Bolivia & Paraguay. Five fish heads cost about USD$1.00, filet cuts just a bit more. And mushrooms that once had made a seasonal appearance in the local markets are now dried and are available all year round. Rather inexpensively at that. With these two fumets, it´s so easy to do so much so quickly!

Case en pointe, today I used the fish fumet for a simple bouillabaisse with saffron. Being I can´t seem to locate fennel in the Andes, I replaced the bulb with star anise to approximate the desired effect (oddly no bottle of Pernod close at hand either). I self-indulgently spiked the mixture with a splash of La Concepcion’s “Vinos Reserva Chardonnay Reserva 2009.” And we wickedly drank the remainder and opened a second. Who´s to say that at "dinner for two" you can´t sip your way into something more comfortable?

© Mick Huerta 2011
All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com

La Comédie means Serious Business - La Paz, Bolivia

Bottom photo of diners courtesy of Eric Bauer.

It was a late lunch around two. Table for two. The rush had eased yet there were still tables chatting and laughing while taking pleasure in the afternoon. The menu was flush with possibilities. To make best use of the opportunity to indulge we ordered Kir Cocktails (white wine augmented with Crème de Cassis, a liqueur made from dark sweet blackcurrants). Glass in hand we made quick assessment and ordered Ravioli of Duck and the Trio del Mar.

A portion of Duck Breast was served resting on top of ravioli and elevated by a light curry sauce flavored with apple and raisin. Delectable. The Trio was a balance of Trout, Shrimp and Crab cooked en Papillote (in parchment) accompanied by the classic Potatoes Dauphinoise. The combination was light, rich on the palate and uplifting. We complemented the plates with glasses of Sauvignon Blanc. Coffee and conversation were the finishing touches. The results being our afternoon and the luncheon experience were absolute gratification.

If in La Paz and you´re serious about food, know that La Comédie means serious business when it comes to enjoyment and entertaining. All in all, it´s an ideal place to seriously relax!

La Comédie
Pasaje Medinacelli 2234, Sopocachi
La Paz - Bolivia
Tel. 591 - 2 - 242 35 61
info@lacomedie-lapaz.com

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
http://mickhuerta.blogspot.com
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Divisadero by Michael Ondaatje (pub. 2007)

When traveling a book is constant companion, at times salvation and most often therapy when best laid plans go bad. With this frame of mind, I always need a few close at hand. And so as fail safe, I bought Divisadero in Bucharest late last year while waitiiiiiiiiiing for a flight to Istanbul. But between logistics of Mediterrean travel, packing up a life in North America and moving south of the equator, the book long remained at the bottom of deep luggage. Upon landing at El Alto (LPB) one of the highest international airports in the world (13,325 ft - 4,061.5 m) and being faced with days of adjusting to altitude, I finally took pause to began Divisadero. Most would be familiar with his 1992 bestseller, The English Patient, book and/or movie. From that success, you´ll recognize Ondaatje´s dreamy artful story telling crafted of stark drama and imagery. This, his most recent tale, is wrapped in poetry and philosophy and big movement balanced with private truths that will keep you tethered ´til the last page. I even read the acknowledgements as insight to a good read. A great way to adjust to new beginnings. I believe you´ll like it, too.

© Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.

Illimani the Golden Eagle!

The name ¨Illimani¨ comes from the Aymara people and means ¨Golden Eagle.¨ It is a befitting title for the highest mountain (21,200 ft/6900m) in the Cordillera Real which lies (16 390S; 67 470W) just south of the city of La Paz, Bolivia. For those of us who live here, Illimani is both landmark and companion. The city is defined by it´s presence and it´s caps of snow, more aptly described as high-altitude tropical glaciers. Quite literally, there is not a day that goes by without Pacenos (residents of La Paz) looking up to catch a glimpse of Illimani and not feeling better for having the city accompanied by a consort of such magnitude. Jallalla!

© Photo by: Mick Huerta 2011 mickhuerta@gmail.com 
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Beatrice Fresh Pastas, La Paz Bolivia

When trekking anywhere on the planet there are challenges. Using a guidebook helps to meet many, however, there are sweet spots that even fastidious research will miss. I find for best information, no matter where you are, ask a local.

In this case, I'll serve as your local guide brimming with tasty insider information directly applicable to lunchtime satisfaction... After many years of living and eating in La Paz, a few spots really shine and a constant favorite for lunch is Beatrice Fresh Pastas. Chef Marco Schiapparoli from Milano, Italia spends his mornings making a variety of artisanal pastas and fresh sauces for a daily crowd of appreciative neighbours. The menu is short (13 pastas - 13 Sauces). The focus is on quality. Even with a classic list of renown pastas (Lasagna, Agnolotti, Ravioli, Cannelloni, Cappalletti, Tagliatelle) there are still surprises. One that I order often is the Coca Pasta. Powdered coca leaves are added to wheat flour when making the dough; served with a flavorful from scratch Pomodoro (Tomato) Sauce or a Llama Bolognesa and the result is like no other. The restaurant is easy to find located facing the Sopocachi Market just outside of the downtown area. Not to be missed! And the prices will not dent even a trekker's budget.

Beatrice Fresh Pasta - Open Lunch & Dinner. Closed Only Tuesdays.
The Wine list is well thought out and priced fairly.
Calle Guachalla, Edificio Nicol, Sopocachi, La Paz Boliva


Copyright © Mick Huerta.
All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com