More than One Way to Skin a Trout!

A fishmonger in a landlocked country? Well, take into consideration that nearby Lake Titicaca is the largest freshwater lake in South America and is, also, the world’s highest navigable lake. Situated at 3,810 m above sea level, the lake nutures king-fish, mauri, the boga, suche, ispy and carachi.

Helping me wade through the options, Lidia is my fishmonger in the Rodriguez Farmer´s Market of La Paz, Bolivia. Even though young, she´s been at it years. Taught the business by her mother, the pair continue to work side-by-side selling a full variety of lake fishes al fresco. Most popular are the trout which were introduced in 1939. 

Lidia makes it look easy to skin a trout and her skill amazes me everytime. She advises that without gloves it´s impossible. I prefer to think it´s just impossible and leave it to the professionals... Simply select a fish and in moments it´s boned, skinned and wrapped to go... destined for great things like lemon and cilantro and a glass of white (Cousiño-Macul Sauvignon Gris).
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"El Condor Pasa (If I Could)" - "I'd rather be a hammer than a nail"

Rainy morning Titicaca; bleary lake Peru. Breakfast guests from around the world (Japan, Canada, Germany, Argentina) absent mindedly push quinoa cereal around their bowls while looking out on incessant drizzle... the little stereo came alive and music filled the morning chill. "Oh, isn't that the Paul Simon song?" Just because we´d already been chatting a little, I felt I could mention that the title is "El Condor Pasa" (The Condor Passes), an old Andean folk instrumental. "By the way, it never had lyrics." "Really?" "Really." The petite japanese lady said, "Guess, that´s how he got a hit. He gave it words."  "Where can I hear the Andean one?" asked the impossibly blonde woman from Dusseldorf. "Youtube," I reply softly. We went back to the condor passing, black coffee and our dreams of floating islands built by the Urus just outside muzzy fogged windows... as the summer rain continued to fall.