ROAD RELLENOS JOURNEY (Chile Rellenos found on the road)

Road trip? Chile Rellenos? Travel with a weakness? Nothing better spells excitement & motivation for a "Fool for Chile" like me! Ok, a few words of orientation before launching into Tales of the Road Rellenos Journey. The core word is "CHILE". Implying that a Chile Relleno will have a balance of flavors yet showcase the "CHILE". It's an attitude. Granted, a very personal one. I love the chile; I have a nose for the chile; I seek out the chile. I will pull over and spend quality time with a plate of Rellenos that are nicely done no matter the location.

This was a bit of a travel loop, part aeroplane-part auto - SLC, Atlanta, New Orleans, Dallas, Lubbock, Santa Fe, Durango and back to SLC. For the purpose of this Road Relleno Journey story, we concentrate on States where the rellenos can be found: Texas, New Mexico, Colorado. To my surprise, it was harder to find a GOOD Chile Relleno in the Southwest then one would think.

Texas: Yet more evidence that Tex-Mex is the numbing down of Mexican Food so gringos will like it, too. General experience, too much cheese, gobs of greasy egg batter and plates drowning in the ubiquitous canned & bland red sauce. First question? Does your cook suffer the fear of CHILE? Chile lost! Balance lost! Two stops, both disappointing.

New Mexico: Spent more time here. Many stops. Michael's in Taos (good). In Santa Fe, Horseman's Haven, tia Sophia's and the Tecolote Cafe, all serve Southwest Classics (great). Favorite - The Pantry: Breakfast & Brunch 1820 Cerrillos Rd Santa Fe, NM 87505 fon: 505. 986.0022. Over the years, the Pantry has added more to the menu so now even kids and grandmothers will find something that will please. Regarding the Rellenos, good use of cornmeal to achieve a crispy exterior, nice balance of chile to cheese filling to CHILE flavor. Add rice, beans and eggs and morning in Santa Fe can be so very good! http://www.pantrysantafe.com/

Colorado: Short time, Durango. Winner of the Heaviest Batter Award. Large Mexican restaurant on the main drag, well known. Relleno delivered, I asked for a sharp knife. A long incision and delicate surgery allowed me to locate the chile. No balance! Paradise missed!

Chile Relleno, I thought, had two approaches. Mexcian - wheat flour used only to coat the chile before being wrapped in peaky, whipped egg batter. Delectable y delicioso. New Mexican - wheat flour, corn meal and a bit of egg, much crispiness and great balance. Wow!

Third approach? Google helped me here. There are a slurry of recipes on-line for what appears to be pancake batter (as coating for Relleno?). I suspect this is the Colorado style I encountered in Durango. Upon returning to Colorado, I'll stick to what they do best. Cow Country? Steak?

True, no great length of time was spent in any one location to dig deep and find the Mom-and-Pop Dives that kick out the incredible (this being the opportunity for residents of poo-pooed locations to argue the reverse). I am a firm believer in the gems. I love ferreting them out and I spend much time, joyfully, eating in those spots all over the world. You'll find my favorites here (as they are uncovered) at All Accordin'.

Fortino Mario Alfonso Moreno Reyes (1911-1993) or more commonly known as "Cantinflas" has been a life-long hero to me. He was a comedic genius, yes, but what appealed to me was his palpable sense of humanity. I never tire of his films. There are about fifty, my favorite being "Ahí está el detalle" (There's the rub). Only two were in English, of these my fave is "Around the World in Eighty Days". Cantinflas played Phileas Fogg's unflappable assistant Passeportout. Next you rent the DVD watch for Cantinflas. Charlie Chaplan called him "the greatest comedian in the world; With a huge smile I just call him Cantinflas.

Paella Kings

All my brothers are wonderful cooks, each with his own style and focus. But it's Joe and I who have taken to the Paella. We have years of practice and a good sense of what pleases guests. The fotos shared are my most recent effort.

If you're curious, START! Google the recipe (in the beginning any flat-bottomed pan will do-after getting some chops invest in a paella pan). The best teachers are research, practice and a Spanish friend. If you lack the Spanish friend just begin cooking you'll have a Spanish friend in no time. Each Spaniard has his own recipe and will want to be part of the experience!

Pour the wine, let the Fiesta-without-Siesta begin!

Cactus salad - Ensalada de Nopalitos

This is truly one of the easiest recipes when using the Nopal Cactus from the bottle. However, if not highly practiced the preparation of raw Nopal paddles into edible strips can be a prickly proposition. The process entails using great care, a sharp knife and a pair of stout gloves to remove all spines (espinas), cutting and par-boiling the ribbons. Once cooled and you've undertaken the pickling process proceed directly to the recipe below! Or do as my grandmother Tomasa did simply resort to prepared cactus from the bottle available at any Mexican market.

Cactus Salad

One cup of Nopal Cactus or more
2 tomatoes, diced
1 onion, diced
Radish, julienne
Fresh cilantro

Simple Vinaigrette
Olive oil or vegetable oil if you prefer
Red wine vinegar
Dried oregano
Salt & pepper al gusto

My little twist on the traditional is to add Julienned Jicama for additional crunch. I finish the salad with fresh lime juice for a light bright flavor! This is a perfect "All Accordin" recipe in that you just add more of any ingredient that pleases you or leave out what doesn't. Yet another twist I find expressly thrilling is the use of Prickly Pear Fruit Jelly in making the vinaigrette - infusing yet more Cactus flavor, cactus to cactus if you like. Also, it's easy to add crisp Romaine Lettuce and crumbly Queso Ranchero (Ranch Cheese) to modernize this salad so well loved in the hot, dry north of Mexico.

Tamales; Red, Green or with Rajas

Every SATURDAY at 10am, a Mexican family (husband and wife - Rey & Emperatriz) arrives at the Super Bodega in SLC, UT to sell fresh handmade tamales (they're up all Friday night cooking). When presented with the steaming pots there are a few choices to make: cheese, chicken or pork, also, corn husk or banana leaf. Top your selection with the fresh Green Salsa (not really picante but packs big flavor with a mince of cilantro, red onion and garlic). After eating your fill, visit the bodega to buy a large variety of vegetables at wholesale prices. You'll never need to pay retail supermarket prices, again! Best avocado prices anywhere!

This is one of those moments where you wonder how you were transported to another country and another time. Welcome to Mexico, would you like some mango juice to finish your meal? The Super Bodega, 6th South 6th West, SLC UT

El Molcajete - Rancho Market, UT

A Molcajete is a Mexican lava stone mortar & pestle. However, there is another meaning to molcajete that spells great dining. A typical Mexican dish of the same name is served in this traditional kitchen tool. The mortar or base is turned upside down on an open flame in order to heat the stone. Once glowing hot the mortar is turned right side up and filled with a sizzle and spatter of salsa, Oaxaca cheese (similar to mozzarella), roasted jalapenos and cactus paddles, shrimp, beef and chicken, then topped with Mexican fresh ranch cheese. Included are fresh tortillas, rice, beans and a wide range of condiments. For a great local version of the Molcajete visit the Rancho Market, 2470 So Redwood Road West Valley City, UT 84119. Serving from 7am to 9pm, the market and their restaurant are an experience unto themselves. It's much like arriving in Mexico without having to pack, hassle with security or have your passport stamped. There's nothing better, nothing more authentic and nothing tastier. Oh, better bring a few big hungry friends, the portions are HUGE!

Paila Marina - Chile

One of the most delectable South American seafood indulgences is Paila Marina (Chilean seafood soup). My friend, Chef Marcela Hernandez of Arica, informs me that depending on where you are the soup will change due to shellfish and fishes prevalent in local waters. And being that the Pacific coastline of Chile is 6435 kilometers (4000 mi) long north to south, that promises a considerable range in water temperature and resident species. However, the basic recipe remains the same (favorite hot fish stock and add readily available fish, shellfish and shrimp, mince of onion & garlic, oregano, bay leaf and perhaps a daub of tomato paste and fresh parsley as a finishing touch). 

Following the above approach while exercising due respect for all seafood used, any home cook can achieve a perfectly wonderful Paila Marina. In conversation, it occurred to me that it is a confident chef who will share a "secret" and the self-assured Chef Hernandez happily revealed a superior Paila Marina is finished with a splash of fresh milk and dry white wine. She insists you use the same white you have in your glass. “One to accent the other,” she adds. “Really, nothing could be better. Salud!”

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2009. All Rights Reserved. 
mickhuerta@gmail.com
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