Milonga al Fresco - La Paz, Bolivia

I speak to el Maestro of Milonga each & everytime I have the good fortune to find him. You see we have much in common. We are both fans of los grandes of Milonga like Aníbal Troilo, Lucio Demare, Angel Vargas and so many others. We both love it and he plays it well. Milonga is a music form which preceded the Tango. It originated in South America around the Río de la Plata area of Argentina and Uruguay. Interestingly, the Milonga uses the same basic elements as Tango and requires a greater relaxation of legs and body. Movement is normally faster, being a kind of rhythmic walking without complicated figures, with a more "rustic" style than Tango. Milonga pulls at the heart.

Each rendezvous I place a few coins in the box that is tied with a cord to his ankle to dissuade snatch thieves who might think robbing the blind is easy-pickings. I've never known his name, I simply call him Maestro. He calls me caballero (gentleman). The titles we have conferred on one another seem to be enough to foster our respectful friendship. Recently returned to La Paz I've kept an eye out, looking in all the customary spots. But no where to be found. And then today in the market, I heard strains of his Bandoneon. I made my way through the swarm of shoppers to see his hands, enjoy his phrasing (accents on the 1st, (sometimes also 2nd) 4th, 5th, and 7th beats) and watch the crowd respond to Milonga al Fresco! Because no matter where el Maestro plays the world changes for the better... an inspired young man took a long-legged girl into his arms, looked deeply into her eyes and they danced a few pasos - at first impassioned, then laughingly and clearly much taken with one another. It didn't matter they hadn't a clue. The crowd applauded their youth, their lack of inhibition and the fact they were in love. BRAVO! MILONGA AL FRESCO! BRAVO MAESTRO!









Copyright © Mick Huerta 2012. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wine!
Tecnical information - Wikipedia

Aymara Prayer - Alasitas Festival - La Paz, Bolivia

An Aymara prayer shared at the Alasitas Festival! The Yatiri (Aymara Shaman) incants in an ancient tongue with smatterings of Spanish as he calls to Ekeko (Aymara God of Abundance) to smile on the celebrant who bows her head in reverence...

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2012.
All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wine!

Shaman Ceremony - Alasitas Festival - La Paz, Bolivia

A young Bolivian mother only wanting the best for her child seeks out a Yatiri (Aymara Shaman) at the Alasitas festival for a blessing to make everything alright, now and in the future...

Alasitas Festival 2012 - La Paz, Bolivia

The perfect syncretic melding of native religion with that of the christian. The ancient indigenous Alasitas festival begins on the steps of La Paz' San Francisco Cathedral where participants will be blessed by both Shamans & Catholic priests...

Shaman's Blessing - Alasitas Festival - La Paz, Bolivia

On the front steps of the Metropolitan Cathedral of La Paz and first day of the Alasitas Festival 2012, a Yatiri (Aymara Shaman) beseeches Ekeko (Aymara god of abundance) to bless a family and their miniature objects bought that day, each represents wishes/desires they have for the upcoming year. Popular miniatures are food so as not to lack a meal, a house for shelter, a car to work as a taxi driver, a university diploma or just about anything each as diverse as human desire. The festival will run for about four weeks. 'Til Carnival, and once again the festive spirit is renewed!

Shrimp with Achiote, Yucatan Style!

Nothing better, nothing easier! Yucatan style shrimp gets it's wonderful flavour from Achiote Paste (annatto seed). It's a Mayan classic I learnt while visiting my brother Roberto at his family's Yucatan Beach House in Chuburna, north of Merida. It's fast and furious and guaranteed to make your mouth water! First step - make Arroz a la Mexicana (Mexican Rice) and in the 20 minutes it takes to cook long grain rice the shrimp are ready to be devoured!


The All Accordin' Recipe is as follows:

2 pounds of shrimp
6 tablespoons achiote paste, available in most Latin markets or online
1 cup fresh orange juice, (or whatcha got on hand)
Juice of three freshly squeezed limes
1 onion finely minced
2 cloves of garlic finely minced
For heat add Chile Powder (I use ground Habanero)
Salt
Fresh ground pepper

Mix all ingredients (except shrimp) in a bowl dissolving the paste into the citrus juices. Then toss in shrimp, Cover well and let marinate until your pan is ripping hot. Add a little oil, once it smokes add shrimp (without marinade). As the shrimp take colour hit the pan with a splash of marinade! Cook 'til done (al gusto). Everyone likes them done to varying degrees. I prefer them golden & just barely done through. Others want them well done, suit yourself. Isn't that what it's all about?

Serve piled high on steaming rice and always with cold, cold beer. Remember plenty of napkins as this is a hands-on feast!

Nota Bene: Be aware of carry-over cooking. In the case of fish & seafood it's crucial; food continues to cook on the plate after it's removed from the heat source. Pull shrimp when just under the point you prefer for better results & greater enjoyment.

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wine!

At Home in the Andean Sky - La Paz, Bolivia

Summertime La Paz and walking on sunshine is a joy. Newly returned after months of travel, walking affords time to reaquaint myself with a city that pops with color, colonial architecture and the gift of art/graffiti. And being at an altitude that ranges from 10,600 ft to over 13,000 ft (3400 to 4000 m), the sky is even bigger here than most places in the world. This is an old city in terms of those in the Americas. Fifteen hundred forty eight (1548) was the year of it's inception. That's ample time for man to change his surroundings as they change him and evidence of that is all around. As a walker in a city with history, I notice things like skinny sidewalks comprised of rectangular slabs lain in a now forgotten year - stone slabs cut by brawn, chisel & hammer then placed by hand. With settling, cracks, repairs and replacement with more modern materials over the centuries it all translates into "watch your step." Yet at the same time you´ll want to keep your eyes up, forever up to relish the sky! Oh, the glorious sky!

Walking is a guiltly pleasure that requires no apology. I walk everyday, to market, to appointments, to take a late afternoon coffee. Sometimes I walk only to escape an insistent computer that sits prominently on the corner desk. Quietly pressing, it nags me to finish the task at hand, to tackle the next. And as anyone who works principally at home knows well, there's really no rest. In response I lace my shoes and without destination, I walk. The city is built on steep hills and justifies the old local joke that there are more "ups & downs" in La Paz than elsewhere. Not as funny as it is true. In stretching my legs on the inclines, I stretch the mind, as well. I often think that the city is like a beautiful Blue Sapphire Ring encircled by diamonds. Sapphire blue is the color of the sky. And since the Andes run southeast of near by Lake Titicaca, and just east of La Paz, the city is adorned by six summits higher than 19,685 ft (6,000 m) all glaciated and attended by many others capped with snow produced through proximity to moist Amazon lowlands. These are the sparklers that complete my image of a radiant ring of blue. And what a city for walking, with all the distinctive and intimate facets to make this an attractive gem.

The greater metro-area has a population estimated at a little over two million inhabitants living in the shadow of the triple-peaked Illimani, a mountain that accompanies us in day-to-day life. This is the Aymara Capital of the world. A strong indigenous influence makes this a unique place to walk. And I take it all in on my rounds here, there and beyond. I keep walking to know well the city, it's people and the sky and I have no doubt that the cranky computer impatiently awaits my return. But first an empanada and a little chat with the locals. And once again, I am at home in the Andean sky...

Bourbon Mist Rebelations - Georgia

Recently, I shared dark Demerara Rum with southern friends (which they liked a lot) and responded with a gracious invitation to dine with them two days hence.

Arriving at the appointed hour, I was asked if I'd care for a Bourbon Mist. Bourbon Mist? Not being much of a whiskey drinker I asked if the cocktail was sweet. To a burst of laughter I was informed no not sugary but as sweet to the palate as mother's milk. Okay?

First allow me to add that this circle of friends is rather feminine, high powered and have a good bit more experience in the Bourbon world than I. And in the face of such august expertise and given the trust we've built over the years I thought I'd just let it ride... Okay! Yes! Bourbon Mist it is!

The recipe is as follows:

Pack a chilled Old-Fashioned glass with finely crushed ice. Freely pour bourbon into the crush. Lemon peel optional.

Simple, beautiful and anything but frou-frou! And as sweet as the hints of caramel, sweetcorn and vanilla resident in the liquor. It was explained that the key to enjoying Kentucky's finest is a little ice to open the bourbon and patience (for melting & sipping). I think I'm getting it. And yes, I believe I'll have another. Thank you, ladies!


Copyright © Mick Huerta 2013. All Rights Reserved.
http://mickhuerta.blogspot.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wines! 

La Nacional Mexican Buffet - Columbus, GA

This is the only real Mexican-Mexican restaurant for miles and miles and miles in any direction! Not Mexican American or American Mexican. A real Mexican restaurant, de veras! That being said the menu has been Americanized somewhat since my first visit in 2010. But only in that particular kid friendly items have been added (i.e. hard shell ground beef tacos). Parents & grandparents take note, Kids Eat Free with paying adult every Wednesday night. And I like the thought of gringo kids having exposure to real deal Mexican meals!

For more developed palates, fear not, there are plenty great Norteño classics at this one price ($6.99) - all you can eat buffet. The Mole de pollo & Tamales top my list but you'll find Chiles Rellenos, Chile Verde, Mixed Fajitas, Bistek Ranchero, Flautos, Quesadillas, Tacos, Burritos & Enchiladas, too. The salsa bar goes from mild to wild with plenty of limes for squeezing on everything! And everything made from scratch with the exception of the tortillas. I enjoy the Aguas Frescas, Horchata & Melon beverages that are produced in-house, as well.

Even the waitresses are 100% Mexicana and fully bilingual! So is the cook! Flavor permeates the entire location. It's a great fresh find in a land of chain restaurants and fry joints!

La Nacional Mexican Buffet
4403 17th Ave, Columbus, GA 31904
706.221.9911


Photo courtesy of Wikipedia

Meritage Cafe - Columbus, GA

The buzz about Meritage Cafe in Columbus produced high hopes for a pleasant night out. The ambiance was comfortable & ample yet somehow banquet hallish, our impression based on the catering tables & stack-able chairs, etc... However, the place settings were very well done. Nice decor.

Our evening resulted in two Duck plates served very under-done (& I like it rare), risotto flavorful, tomato parmigiano soup room-temp on a cold night. All salads on offer were frou-frou candied pecans or a crumble of bleu cheese, so I requested a simple green salad dressed with vinaigrette. What I received was a hand full of Mesclun lettuce with a little cup of olive oil & a little cup of vinegar. No salt, pepper, tomato, not a thing more to complete the plate, umff. One of our guests didn't know how to approach a scooped out head of iceberg filled with creamy dressing and just pushed it to the side. The second guest ordered medium rare Filet Mignon; it came to the table rare with fat untrimmed. Service lacked confidence even though sincere. Our waitress was rushed and repeatedly bumped into the backs of chairs as she scooted between tables, somewhat unnerving. We didn't say much - just paid the bill, tipped 20% and compared notes in the car.

We felt Meritage Cafe faltered in attention to detail. The cafe has many strengths (i.e. excellent wine list, decor, etc.) yet needs a seasoned professional at the helm so it lives up to the hype... I hope they can get it together as there's always room for good sensibilities on any dining scene.

Meritage Cafe
1350 13th Street Columbus, GA 31901-2345

706. 327.0707

http://www.meritagecafe.net/

Dinner by any Name is Still a Little Feast!

A kilo of wild scallops warrants searing attention! I like them simple with their own flavor leading all taste buds to nirvana.

Here they splash down in a deglaze of crustacean juice, olive oil and a spritz of fresh Lemon, sea salt & a few twists of cracked pepper. Accompanied by chilled spears of asparagus in vinaigrette. Add a young, un-oaked Spanish red (Tempranillo) and dinner by any name is still a little feast!

Ezell's Catfish Cabin - “Fish Tremble When You Mention Their Name!” Columbus, GA

Ezell's Catfish Cabin - Not a restaurant really but more a cabin where laid-back locals go to get the finest of this genre. Every visit to Columbus, I eat country style fried food just once at each favorite spot. And I always rush to Ezell's to get some of the very best. More than Catfish, the sides are perfect. The collards delicious, hush puppies crisp and the fried green tomatoes really, really good. For crispy fries just ask; southerners prefer a softer texture (to each his own). Our waitress Julie was upbeat and happy to please. It was an even better experience having her guide our group of four travelers... We left well fed, well attended and with overwhelming desire to return again and again.

Ezell's Catfish Cabin
4001 Warm Springs Rd
Columbus, GA 31909
706.568.1149


Photos by Mick Huerta

Lamb’s 151 Proof Navy Rum - Maritimes Canada

A bottle of Demerara Rum came to me as a gift from dear friends after their recent trip to Newfoundland and the small French islands of St. Pierre & Miquelon. I put the gift to good use close to midnight. Just one dram of a favorite flavor from the Maritimes of Canada ~ A pipe, a pen, a glass of crushed ice and an opportunity to write on heavy creme vellum. In scribbling new year greetings home to St. John's, NL and to the alluring southern shore, I realized there is no one who ever leaves home. Nor does home ever leave any one of us...

Canada’s 300-year-old tradition of trading Rum for dried cod fish continues in the Atlantic Maritime provinces of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia where rums from Antigua, Barbados, Jamaica and the Demerara are imported and aged.

Rosehill Seafood Co - Columbus, GA

The Oysters are tremendous at Rosehill Seafood Co, fresh & fried! Oh sure, there's all the requisite broiled & fried Seafood, Shrimp, Fish and Crab meat. And if you desire hot, crispy french fried potatoes just ask; they love to accommodate (southern style fries are limp & served at room temperature and they like them that way).

Surprisingly, hush puppies at Rosehill are not so very good but really that's no grave transgression. Any tummy is only so big, bread of any sort is only filler and serious eaters are just out for the best. And in the opinion of many, the best they offer are the OYSTERS! They are served chilled by the half ($4.00) and full dozen ($8.00) on a tray w/o shaved ice. We just eat'em fast and order more. And with a Brown Bag Liquor License there's no hiccup arriving with your favorite tipple. I prefer dry bubbly with oysters (an acidic flavor to salty brine for balance!) and when putting a bottle on the table, the only question is; "How many glasses?" They always provide big plastic picnic tumblers but who's to complain, the service is efficient and friendly and the OYSTERS! Oh, did I mention the OYSTERS!

Rosehill Seafood Co
2621 Hamilton Road Columbus, GA 31904-8539
706.322.1269

CAFÉ LE RUE @ The Landings - Columbus, GA

This is a self-proclaimed Authentic Cajun Restaurant and the only in Columbus, Georgia. I really don't know what that means but the Shrimp Gumbo was superb and the Fried Oysters were exceptional! CAFÉ LE RUE offers a diverse menu which obviously appeals to the local American palate (kids & parents seemed equally as happy) but evidently have not compromised on core classics... We enjoyed it tremendously, partly because we did not order Wraps or the fries. Leaving all that to the kids, we stuck with Cajun classics. Kudos to Cafe Le Rue!

Cafe Le Rue @ The Landings
2523 Airport Thruway, #D
Columbus, GA 31904
706.507.5851

Uptown Fish House - Columbus, GA

Columbus, Georgia - Uptown; you'll find catfish that crisps then melts in your mouth, hush puppies to quiet your hunger and all the smiles to make you feel perfectly at home.

Michael & Sonya Eddings opened Uptown Fish House Spring 2011 and are going strong. Visiting for lunch on a rainy day we sat in their well appointed dining area. The room about half full, the server was inviting and efficient, the Red Stripe Beer very cold. No doubt good things were to come. No disappointments, either. Quick delivery of Fried Oysters, Catfish, Okra, Sweet Potato Fries & Onion Rings put a huge smile on my face. A batter so light it crackled and Okra so very right they were good complement to hush puppies to die for, honestly! I am not a fan of tartar sauce with fried foods (a personal preference) but Tabasco & Lemon wedges appeal. Our server promptly provided both. A winning combination all way 'round; fast kitchen, good service and plates so tasty you'll plan your next visit before finishing off the morsels in front of you! Try the Grilled Crab Cakes, truly Foodie Heaven!

When out that way, drop in. Michael, Sonya and staff are waiting for you. Well worth the trip when traveling with taste buds as your principle guide... "Where the Big Fish Dine" and where small fry will be happy, too!

Uptown Fish House
1208 1st Ave Columbus, GA 31901-4298
706.324.7405
http://www.uptownfishouse.com/

Three King's Day - Día de los Reyes Magos

The Twelve Days of Christmas now conclude with the arrival of the three Eastern Kings! Since childhood I have loved the song "Partridge in a Pear Tree" and all it's imagery. But it really made no sense when juxtaposed with North American celebrations of the retail season. Which twelve days? Easy to be confused when Christmas carols are played in stores and on the radio well before Thanksgiving day. Now turning to the core of the matter and reason for it all, the Twelve Days of Christmas are the festive days beginning Christmas Day (25 December). The Twelfth Night of Christmas is always on the evening of 5 January. Twelfth Night is followed by the Feast of the Epiphany on 6 January. Now you may ask what this has to do with the modern world? Ah, nothing. But it might explain why Latinos in your town are planning dinner, baking a ring shaped pastry and are acting, well, festive.

In the Latin world, Epiphany day is called El Día de los Reyes Magos (The Day of the Kings), i.e., the day when several Kings or Magi, arrived from the East to worship and present three gifts to the baby Jesus after following a particularly bright star in the heavens. I find it an incredible story and a wonderful excuse to celebrate with a parade, general merriment and ten lords a-leaping. And yes, you now have permission to take down the Christmas tree!

source - wikipedia
video source - Youtube