Monday, August 29, 2011

Amazon Catfish at La Estancia Restaurant - Cochabamba, Bolivia



La Estancia in Cochabamba, Bolivia is widely acclaimed as a steakhouse. But if you desire a truly pinnacle culinary experience, the reason to seek out this spot just off Plaza Recoleta is the Surubí (South American river fish). Recently I dined with a Bolivian friend who remarked she´d eaten Surubí all her life and never had better! Succulent off the grill, crisp at the edges and when combined with chimichurri sauce, fried yucca, ample salad bar and Canepa Novisimo Sauvignon Blanc 2009 the experience was world class... looking forward to a repeat performance!
 
Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
Travel, Culture, Food & Wines

PIPOCA: Onomatopoeia Never Tasted So Good - CBBA, Bolivia


Throughout South America popcorn is called Pipoca (even in Brazil)! Walking Sunday early afternoon, I came across Doña Ofelia, a true master at popping corn. Done in a jiffy and fortunately she had a little powdered aji (chile) because some do like it HOT! I ordered two big bags, one with and the other without. And ate them sharing with other afternoon strollers along the way. No better ice-breaker and if only asking directions the resulting conversation has a bright, crispy edge to it... You know, onomatopoeia never tasted so good!
Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
Travel, Culture, Food & Wines


Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Blue Pine Farm Tienda - Coroico, Bolivia


If after trekking the Andes there´s nothing better than oxygen and warmth, make your way out of the heady heights down into the Yungas for a breather of tropical proportions. And if you can´t bear to look another banana or plate of fried food in the eye, there´s the “Blue Pine Farm Tienda” (provisioners) to the rescue. A full complement of lovely foods and gourmet coffees are to be had. Cheeses and meats are maintained at safe temperature in a refrigerated case which is plugged in (many in the tropics are not). They leave it to you to warm cheese to your liking. Thank you. Many homemade items are featured with a representative offering of the very best food items put up for sale by local producers. And fortunately for residents and visitors alike, the owners have a little farm where they raise the happy chickens that provide the organic eggs consumed throughout the North Yungas cloud forest. A full variety of organic and natural foods are on the shelves, as well. The Blue Pine Farm Tienda is truly an oasis of sensibility in a slap dash world... for confirmation of this you have only to look to the chocolate selection.

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
Travel, Culture, Food & Wines

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Playing with a Little Dead Boy

He was shy at first but the cajoling playfulness of the health worker brought a smile to his face. So many big people in a small house can be worrisome when you’re eighteen months old. But mommy had invited everyone in and was chirping her welcome. She began to peel layers and layers of clothing off the boy to ready him for the monthly session of weighing and measuring, general checkup and check in. And even though the gathering was all business it was conducted in a neighbourly fashion that felt like a social call.

We’d knocked at the front door on a cloudless day sparkling in high altitude blue. Our sizable troupe, comprised of invited representatives and volunteers, tramped into the small space. We came together to learn about projects and build contacts for future collaborations. And fortunately in touring locations, CSRA, an Andean health organization arranged for us to make a house visit to see a child who had been seriously ill. Fits of diarrhea had racked the boy and left him weak, underweight and categorized as high risk. We accompanied the health worker; whose rapport with the family was unmistakable. His reassuring tone and manner put everyone at ease. First assisted by mommy it was hop, hop up onto the scale for weighing then swooped up and laid down onto a height measuring contraption, all appropriate notations and entries were made. Dots were placed on a graph and the information was shared with all present. Efficiency was punctuated by the boy’s giggles and smiles. He thought it great fun.

Then in conversation about the child and his regained health, diet and activity level yet more information was added to the file. All attention had shifted to details provided by mommy. On the sidelines, the little boy brought me a ball and though not sure on his feet, he wanted to play. I took the ball and rolled it to him. He wobbled then steadied himself; he kicked the ball out the door and into the courtyard. With peals of laughter he toddled after it and kicked it again. I blocked with my foot and scooted it back. Kicking it to the older sister, she joined in. More laughter, more fun; the games went on. Inside the adults finished up and initiated their goodbyes as we in the courtyard continued to play and titter and assist the boy in training to “Bend it like Beckham.” Parting pleasantries concluded with a little boy´s hug and a pat on the head, the troupe piled into a waiting vehicle and we began our return journey to the La Paz city center. En route I asked the health worker; “If the family had been left without care, would the boy have survived his illness?”
“No way, he´d have been one dead little boy.”
“So attending to this family and to the child, saved the boy’s life?”
“Señor, without help that little boy would have been just another statistic.”

We all cringed. And with the high infant mortality rate on the Altiplano of Bolivia, I couldn’t help but think I’d been playing soccer with a little dead boy who, thankfully, had been snatched up, protected and saved for more of this life to be lived full on…


Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
Travel, Culture, Food & Wines

Saturday, August 20, 2011

Fiesta Anata Andina; Indigenous Carnival - Oruro Bolivia



One part of life that continues to send me to the heavens is the celebration of people who know village life. I am enthralled with the joy of people who live the sun and seasons and prosper by the gift of rain and harvest. It is with them I feel most at home, most alive and most inspired to dance...


Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
Travel, Culture, Food & Wines


Thursday, August 18, 2011

Full Big Lips & Night Train to Lisbon - La Paz, Bolivia


I crammed into the doctor’s office with all the rest and sat in the only chair available. Beside me was a person holding a book. Reading we both nonchalantly peeked at the title held by the only other person who bothered to carry one. Apparently, we had opted not to be assaulted by the ragtag magazines strewn about the waiting area. We, the only two, had wished to make best use of time spent waiting there in limbo. Her face was young and occupied by big full lips, a very different face than those readily seen here in Bolivia. A forefinger marked her place in a French translation of Salmon Rushdie’s Satanic Verses. She spoke first.

“How do you like it?” She said pointing with her nose at the Night Train to Lisbon by Pascal Mercier I had in hand.
“I am enjoying it greatly.” I responded noting her accented Spanish.
“I don’t know, my mother had the book and I tried and tried but just couldn’t. I just wanted him to reunite with the Portuguese woman he found on the bridge.”

Oddly now three quarters through, I had been thinking about that same Portuguese woman in the first chapter that Gregorius meets in the rain.

“Please don’t tell me more; I’d like to find out for myself.”
“Oh yes, so sorry, you’re right.” She’d said quickly.
“Did you finish it?”
“No I couldn’t.”
“Oh.” I said crestfallen.
“Sorry.”
“No it’s all right. I’ll finish it regardless.”
“Do you read French?” she asked showing me the cover of her book.
“Only with a dictionary.”
“Portuguese?”
“Yes, I spent some time in Salvador da Bahia.”
“I lived there before coming here.” She replied in Portuguese.
“Really? Did you love it as much as I did?” I queried continuing in the same tongue.
“Yes!” she said becoming luminous with the affirmation.

I listened as she spoke of her love for the food, language, the people of Bahia and the sea. Exuberantly she bubbled her joy for living in Brazil facing the expansive Atlantic. Interjecting brusquely, a bustling white uniformed woman entered the room calling out from a list;
“Buchard, Celeste Buchard?”
“Here.” She rose and swiftly moved toward one of the examination rooms.
She looked back and smiled.
“Merci, à bientôt.” This said giving a small wave.

The door shut and I sat wondering. A few moments later another white clad woman called my name from her list. I obidiently followed her into a tiny, cold room and was asked to disrobe for the doctor who would be along presently. Twenty minutes later I was once again in the waiting area and the mystery girl was nowhere to be found. It occurred to me that the protagonist in my book, Gregorius, was not the only man never again to meet with his curiously captivating Portuguese speaking girl. But I believe both of our lives had changed forever for having met her just the once…


Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
Travel, Culture, Food & Wines

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Toto Ristorante - Coroico Bolivia






It´s a bit incongruous to find a ristorante in a South American tropical zone, manned by an Italian chef (Christian Budano) and named after the genius actor Toto called il principe della risata ("the prince of laughter")!

Astonished when I read the signpost, I was immediately pulled into a very inviting space, the pizza oven was cranking in the background as the Rock & Roll music wafted seductively in the afternoon heat. The menu was full and representative of the Tuscan kitchen yet I decided on simple Spaghetti with handmade Pesto Sauce. The pasta was "Al dente" and the sauce (redolent of Walnut and Brazil Nut) was a surprising jungle twist on a trattoria classic. Combine the plate of pasta with Bolivia´s young red wines (i.e. Aranjuez Terruño) and you have another perfectly wonderful spontaneous ramble in Coroico. Buon Appetito from Toto and the Cloud Forest of Los Yungas!

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
Travel, Culture, Food & Wines