Beatrice Fresh Pastas, La Paz Bolivia

When trekking anywhere on the planet there are challenges. Using a guidebook helps to meet many, however, there are sweet spots that even fastidious research will miss. I find for best information, no matter where you are, ask a local.

In this case, I'll serve as your local guide brimming with tasty insider information directly applicable to lunchtime satisfaction... After many years of living and eating in La Paz, a few spots really shine and a constant favorite for lunch is Beatrice Fresh Pastas. Chef Marco Schiapparoli from Milano, Italia spends his mornings making a variety of artisanal pastas and fresh sauces for a daily crowd of appreciative neighbours. The menu is short (13 pastas - 13 Sauces). The focus is on quality. Even with a classic list of renown pastas (Lasagna, Agnolotti, Ravioli, Cannelloni, Cappalletti, Tagliatelle) there are still surprises. One that I order often is the Coca Pasta. Powdered coca leaves are added to wheat flour when making the dough; served with a flavorful from scratch Pomodoro (Tomato) Sauce or a Llama Bolognesa and the result is like no other. The restaurant is easy to find located facing the Sopocachi Market just outside of the downtown area. Not to be missed! And the prices will not dent even a trekker's budget.

Beatrice Fresh Pasta - Open Lunch & Dinner. Closed Only Tuesdays.
The Wine list is well thought out and priced fairly.
Calle Guachalla, Edificio Nicol, Sopocachi, La Paz Boliva


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mickhuerta@gmail.com

Azapa, Chile

The Olives of Azapa, Chile are pungent and luscious. The oil they provide is truly a godsend on any salad expressly when balanced with fresh lime juice and completed with a pinch of Salt & Pepper. To travel in the Atacama desert: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atacama, you´d think there is nothing present save the beauty of the open exhausted expanse. So very wrong! There is an olive that begs you to pause and redefine the concept of time-savour. Here you are encouraged catch your breath and claim the joys of appreciating your life. Please, stop and smell the olives and the perfume of Azapa Olive Oil. Your mouth and eyes will water when you do.

Once on the trail of Pisco Sour there is no shirking duty ´til the investigation comes to a natural close. Not to throw onesself into the company of Brother Cadfael, C. Auguste Dupin, Hercule Poirot, Miss Marple, Philip Marlowe, Sam Spade, Sherlock Holmes or our dear Watson. No, not at all. My comment is more that once the trail is warm and you happen to be on the South American coast that grows the grape and where is produced the clear brandy called Pisco, it is only natural to follow where curiousity leads. If that trail is littered with glass after glass of a spent favorite cocktail, multiple locations, two countries, so be it. Pictured here, Pisco Sour, Azapa Inn, Azapa Valley Northern Chile.

COCA SOUR Cocktails - Elixir of the Andes!

The Pisco Sour: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pisco_Sour, is an iconic cocktail claimed vehemently by both Peru and Chile. Pisco is simply a clear brandy distilled from white muscat grapes which were first grown by the Spanish in the 16th century. While both countries claim the liquor as their own, I have heard very few claim to be the point of origin of the cocktail. The one that stands out is the Hotel Maury in Lima, Peru. However, as the battle ensues I imbibe Pisco Sour in all locations without ever choosing sides. Truly safer this way, and of course, there's no danger of offending my South American hosts.

For my Coca Leaf version of this Andean classic, fill a litre jar with fresh Coca Leaves: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coca, then fill to brim with Pisco or Singani: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Singani, the clear brandy of Bolivia. Let sit for four weeks, shake the jar anytime it occurs to you. The liquor will change color and the leaves will lose their lustre. Once liquor is green, you are ready to follow this Pisco Sour recipe with a twist.

3 parts Coca Singani or Pisco (from recipe above)
1 1/2 parts Key Lime Juice: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Key_Lime
1 - 2 tbsp Sugar (or Bar Syrup)
1 Egg White (optional, produces froth)
A few drops of Aromatic Bitters

* Some will sugar the rim of the glass, I find this more affectation then tradition. And in this, I smell shades of Mexico's Margarita.

If you have no access to Coca Leaves, I suggest you visit... In the meantime, SALUD!

Pizzaz at 4000 Metres (12,000 feet) Above Sea Level

Often I am accused of loving to play pizzaiolo (pizza maker) and now after creating pizza at 4000 meters (12,000 ft) it seems altitude doesn´t much effect the fun.

Visiting old friends and old haunts in La Paz, Bolivia gave opportunity to throw flour, pop the cork of wonderful South American wines (Italians prefer to drink beer with pizza) and thrill the young of various generations. I´ve found that adults and kids are equally enthusiastic about an afternoon of making personal pizzas and eating the results. Just offer a huge salad and the Party Menu is complete.

First hint is to make the dough at least 24 hours earlier. The dough relaxes as you should when dazzling your friends and family.

Secound Hint, buy inexpensive unglazed terra cota tiles from any tile store and line the oven-rack placed at the bottom position. If you have a gas oven place tiles on the oven floor. Cook the pizza right on the hot tiles, good results assured.

Pre-heat oven to highest setting (Professional wood oven temperatures reach 750° to 800° F). At home 500° to 550° F works just fine.

4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1 3/4 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon instant yeast
1/4 cup olive oil or veg oil (optional)
1 3/4 cups warm water
cornmeal for dusting pizza peel

The dough should be a little sticky. Form a ball, douse with olive oil, place in plastic bag and refrigerate up to 2 or three days. The longer it reposes the greater your ease in making the thin crust Neopolitana Pizza. Allow dough to come to room temperature before using.

Red Sauce: 1 can (28 oz) of favorite peeled tomatoes
4 teaspoons olive oil
salt to taste

Bechamel Sauce is a good alternative: http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/White-Sauce-or-Bechamel-Sauce-40046

Toppings? Think in terms of the pizza you want to eat: Traditional Margarita, Marinara, Mediterranean, Kiddie, Veggie, Hawaiian, etc. Some in our creative crew loved Hearts of Palm, one young palate prefered canned corn and ham. Pfft, new one on me.

P.S. To give ingredients visual pop use a Kitchen Mandoline: http://localfoods.about.com/od/localfoodsglossary/g/mandoline.htm, to julienne veggies like the zucchini pictured above. I love the less expensive and versitile Borner V-Slicer: http://www.simplygoodstuff.com/borner_vslicer.html

Saturday Simple!

The Saturday was perfect, just a bit cold smacked with bright sunshine. A pot to the stove, whole chicken cooked and a broth born. Next I added the Fall season's ripe tomatoes blanched, peeled and pureed with a hand blender, mince of onion and garlic, pinch of Herbes de Provence. A few hands full of baby spinach that wilted nicely once dropped into the soup. Fresh, simple & steaming. Not one drop left after visitors and I had our way with spoon and bowl. A baguette helps to sop up the goodness and a crisp Chardonnay helps spark the afternoon in just the right way. I find that entertaining doesn't have to be stacks of work. Good fresh food and the events of the day are all that's needed to make any gathering everything you wish to share with those you love. Bon Appetit, Bien Provecho e Buon Appetito! Salud!

At times one trout poses a problem. Not enough for guests and possibly too much for one's self. Solution? Side dishes that fill the plate, round out the presentation and tease the palate. Pick up the phone and call someone intriguing. Eating alone has never been appealing (no matter how often it's done). Put fresh cut flowers on the table (best if from the garden, so as not to dent the wallet). Light a candle. ¡Caray!, it's a dinner party. Who knew?

As for the bev, I find a full flavored white (low or no oak) will go with about anything except strong flavored meats and red with low tannins will go with anything including fish. I give you a foto of one trout for two, Mexican style, and a few wines that will enhance your dining pleasure.

Wine suggestion: Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio, Albarino, Tempranillo, also the ever versatile Shiraz