Restaurant Vienna - Best Martini in Bolivia, Perhaps the Best Martini in all of South America - La Paz, Bolivia

An overwhelming majority of European and Latin American bartenders are under the impression that anyone who asks for a Martini wants a cocktail fashioned mostly from Martini—and Martini & Rossi is the name of a vermouth, no? So for many traveling abroad, it is difficult to find a classic cocktail that fits the bill. I've taught the Dry Martini to countless bartenders in sundry ports of call. All the effort put forward just to enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail, provide another arrow for the barman’s quiver and for the benefit of the next weary traveler in need of a Dry Martini. One must do what one can in order to civilize an otherwise untamed world. The Classic is a mix of gin combined with dry vermouth in a five-to-one ratio. All that froufrou martini crap be damned (appletini, chocotini, etc.). That's all nothing more than candy-coated marketing for the uninitiated. The recipe of choice is really very simple:

• Cracked ice

• 2 1/2 ounces dry gin

• 1/2 ounce dry vermouth, Martini & Rossi or Noilly Prat

• Green olive for garnish

Preparation - In a shaker filled with ice, combine gin and vermouth. Shake well, then strain into a frozen martini glass. Garnish with olive and sip your way into something much more comfortable.

When you arrive in the city of La Paz there’s no need to teach anyone a thing. There is one oasis of cocktail sensibility. Just go to Restaurant Vienna! There the bartenders, admirably, practice the classic and its variations. They even have little onions if you'd prefer to go Gibson. And by the way, the plates and Mousse over fresh berries are fabulous, too!

So perfect is Vienna's Dry Martini that when they ask if I’d care for another, I respond with my grandfather’s maxim; “A bird cannot fly with but one wing!” Cheers!

Restaurant Vienna

Address: Federico Zuazo #1905

Tel: 244.1660

Central City- La Paz, Bolivia

Surprise in Sopocachi! Wedding Bells! - La Paz, Bolivia

Saturday is a gloriously busy day – it’s the day when the earth’s bounty arrives from the countryside farms and La Paz is alive with maids & mavens engaged in intense negotiations over eggplant, tomatoes and wine. And everywhere there’s the buzz of chefs securing the very best for their clientele... Leaving the Sopocachi market my bags full, I spied a tuxedoed Chef Marco Schiapparoli standing outside of his restaurant “Beatrice Fresh Pastas” which faces the market. Evidently it was his wedding day (streamers and ribbons giving the whole thing away), he was welcoming guests as they arrived. In passing I congratulated him. He took my hand and gripping firmly he ushered me inside although painfully underdressed for the occasion, shopping bags in hand! Obviously, there’s no saying no to an Italian chef on his wedding day! The cake was a many tiered thing adorning a far wall where chilled bubbly sparkled. Conversation and laughter came from tables manned by her family; no one from his side in attendance. 

Before you raise an eyebrow, allow me to say the chef has lived twenty-two years happily with the same lovely woman and has four stunningly gorgeous children. Kudos! Not many do better!

He apprised me that the family is soon to travel to Italia for the big church wedding (Latins have a civil ceremony, thereafter, comes the church wedding). “The civil formalities in Bolivia had been excellent but the celebration in Italia is going to be incredible," declared the chef. I can only imagine the glories of a large Italian marriage ceremony and the subsequent celebration. And as Chef Marco & wife have done, one could suppose it perfectly wonderful to first have the beautiful children to fill the positions of flower girls and ring bearer. And as smartly dressed as they were today, honestly, they will be fabulous. 

Beyond the obligatory skyscraper Bolivian wedding cake was Chef Marco's Tiramisu! Caray! Say no more! The tiramisu, rich and full, would stand well with most red wines. And in perfect combination, the “Fuzion Shiraz Malbec 2010, Mendoza Argentina” flowed abundantly and the assembled crowd was jubilant. It was a first and quite the surprise to attend a wedding with my shopping bags. But the air seemed lighter and the day had more cheer because the sun shone the first time in days in rainy La Paz. And it’s always a bit of a blessing to take part in the best of times with people who, through shared memories, are becoming very good friends.

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wine!

None Better - Beatrice Fresh Pasta - La Paz, Bolivia

Not a lot of frill to Beatrice Fresh Pasta (a casual trattoria) but the plates are incomparable!!! This is a straight forward artisan's restaurant. And owner/chef Marco Schiapparoli (Milan, Italy) knows his craft well - handmade pastas & fresh sauces, also, imported Italian olive oil and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese! Squisito!

Lasagna, Agnolotti, Ravioli, Cannelloni, Cappalletti, Tagliatelle - so complete is the concentration on pasta, you'll not find a salad on the menu!

So you're a Pasta Fanatic? WELL GOOD! You've found a kindred spirit in Chef Marco! And the prices are surprisingly low...

Beatrice Fresh Pasta! Diners in New York, London & Paris would be thrilled to have a spot like this, too! No other in Bolivia even stands in the same class. And the wine selection is note worthy, as well!

Nota bene: Open Lunch & Dinner. Day of Rest - Tuesday.
Beatrice Fresh Pasta -
Calle Guachalla,
Edificio Nicol, Sopocachi -
La Paz, Bolivia.












Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011.
All Rights Reserved
mickhuerta@gmail.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wine!

Glorious Peter - St. Petersburg, Russia

A few years ago as spent leaves fell fast, I lived a month in Russia with old friends. There good weather in autumn is called Women’s Summer (somewhat like the Indian Summer of North America). And we made good use of warm days traveling nine of eleven time zones that made up this immense country (the zones now have been reduced to ten). The undeniable highlight of the trip was the sparkling city named after Peter the Great! The majority of Russians and anyone familiar with the city just call it Peter, meaning St. Petersburg, Russia.

St. Petersburg was founded on May 16, 1703, when the foundation of the Peter and Paul Fortress was laid. And while you visit glorious Peter you’ll not want to miss the history, architecture and museums. Those who appreciate Russian Arts know that this is the city of Pushkin and Dostoevsky. Many composers/musicians have been residents; including the celebrated Rachmaninoff, Prokofiev, Shostakovich and Rimsky-Korsakov amongst others. The celebrated ballerina Anna Pavlova was born here.

The city’s main boulevard is the forever trendy Nevsky Prospekt, which is 4.5 kilometers (2.8 miles) long. For many residents of Peter, a stroll along this central thoroughfare is bit of a ritual and a prime opportunity to socialize. Also, the extraordinary Hermitage is one of the world’s largest museums, housing more than 3 million works of art featuring the likes of Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Rubens, Matisse and Vincent van Gogh. Paying a visit is a must for anyone who comes to Peter. Fortunately through a tourist office we found Sergei, guide cum former KGB operative. I playfully say this because we stealthily zipped into sites past serpentine lines with a simple greeting to doormen. Being his insouciant self, he apprised us that there was much too much to see between the Hermitage and the majestic Winter Palace, former residence of the tsars. Therefore we had two options, to return every day for five days to cover it all or attend to the highlights in one ambitious day. We chose the latter.

While swooping through a collection that was mind bogglingly first-rate, I stood up close admiring a Raphael painting nose to the brush strokes, so to speak, and asked Sergei about security. He shared that everything had changed since June of 1985, while hanging in the Hermitage Museum, Rembrandt’s Danaë was viscously attacked by an unnamed ‘madman’ who threw sulfuric acid on the painting and then slashed it with a blade. We gazed uncomfortably at the still obvious acid stains remaining on the wooden floor. He assured us the painting has been restored and that heightened security is now in place at the doors before you enter, all to protect the art and art lovers in a non-obtrusive way.

Oh, Peter! Peter! So much to do! And you too will be challenged! If you want to make good use of your time, you must keep up the pace! Travel by boat on the canals, Peter is nicknamed the “Venice of the North.” A day trip to the stunning Peterhof Palace and the Grand Cascade is relaxing and rewarding. Visit the emblematic Bronze Horseman Statue, a tribute to Peter the Great. Other sites not to be missed include the Russian Museum and the giant St. Isaac’s Cathedral (101.5 meters - 333 feet in height), the Summer Gardens and the Peter and Paul Fortress which is the burial place of Russian emperors. Then there’s the ballet and classical music concerts in unforgettably lavish venues. No matter if you have 3, 5 or even 12 days, they’ll all be chock-full!

A whirlwind week concluded with a "jacket and tie" Champagnsky Sunday Brunch highlighting dishes like smoked salmon, blinis, caviar and a full array of anything you can imagine along with frozen “Russian Standard” Vodka (Platinum Label). Sunday Brunch is truly an all-out scrumptious event in Peter.

Looking back on it all, Sergei was too right in that there’s much too much to see and do. Honestly, seven days could never be enough to know the city which surely justifies all plans to return and make Peter a lifelong friend.

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wine!
*Images courtesy "Just Russia" & Wikipedia.

Write your own Jungle Book - with GIN LIMON!

Traveling tropical zones can produce a thirst that knows no equal. And for many the traditional warm weather remedy Cuba Libre (Rum & Coke) is sweet, sweet, sweet and lends itself to hangovers of university freshmen proportions.

Fortunately in Latin America there are trade agreements with Spain meaning we have LARIOS DRY GIN of Malaga! Larios made according to the "London Dry Gin" method (since 1863), is distilled twice in copper stills using select fruit and aromatic plants inclusive of juniper berries, lemon, bitter oranges, coriander, cinnamon and almonds. It goes down well with any on-the-go lifestyle because Larios is a subtle blend of fruity, floral and spicy flavours which mix nicely with just fresh LIME JUICE. Depending on how rustic your location the ice could be optional, even though I prefer a cube or two.

Some years ago while spending time in Spain, I discovered the Spanish Gin Cocktail of choice - GIN LIMON. And it's rather, rather good!

2 Jiggers of LARIOS GIN
Splash Lime Juice
A Little Sugar to Taste
Splash Sparkling Water
Cubes of Ice

Shake up all ingredients and serve.

The result is refreshing and light. Yet when touring the amazing Amazon wilderness where accommodations can be a little primitive, you'll not find a full bar! And most assuredly, never a tin of tonic water! That's when my little GIN LIMON variation comes in handy.

One bag of Limes
One bag of Ice
One Perfectly Sharp Knife
LARIOS DRY GIN

Mix all ingredients (al gusto) with a few locals and serve. Sprinkle a little sugar to balance sour to sweet if that appeals. Rim the glass with powdered sugar if you're inclined to the froufrou. Or just go comando - you´ve got the knife!

Now its cocktail hour and time to write your own Jungle Book, with LARIOS DRY GIN! Salud!

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2011. All Rights Reserved.
mickhuerta@gmail.com
All Accordin' - Travel, Culture, Food & Wine!