Freshest Cup Ever... in the small Coffee Plantations of Bolivia!

Being her family has a plantation, my darling friend, Celestina promised the freshest coffee ever. A large sack sat on the floor full of dried, raw beans. "Come, come," she waved me into the kitchen determined to show me how easy it is. "Much fuss made over coffee." she adds. "When it´s all so simple." In a little pot on a gas flame she stirred and stirred with a flat wooden implement while occasionally sprinkling sugar over the roasting beans.

She tells me sugar in the roasting process is called Torrefacto and is common in Spain, France, Portugal and throughout Latin America. The addition of sugar is a trick to allow a deeper, darker roast without burning.

Once the roast was achieved, there was hurried need to spread out the beans to cool, then grinding and finally the brewing process. The drip method is what Celestina uses and the steaming hot coffee sent a perfume into the air that was overwhelming. She added a tot of brandy to each cup and called it Carajillo!

Never one to crave coffee in the morning and more inclined to sip a strong, black brew at 2 pm; I can see the benefits of processing beans as ceremony, expressly, when with a friend who shares in the labor and the resulting cups. And if you want to go all the way to a carajillo? That´s between you and the afternoon to be shared.

 

Now available recipes for heavenly Latin Sauces - "Salsa!The Sauces of South America." Just$3.99 at Amazon.com! Also available - "HotList South America" an essential addendum to your travel guide of choice.


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Fiddlehead Salad in the Cloud Forest

 Fiddleheads are first growth, emerging in the spring and are coiled like the head of a violin. Similar to asparagus in flavor and texture, fiddleheads make for wonderful salad and a reminder of how delicious the little things can be...

Fiddlehead Salad
2 cups fiddlehead ferns, trimmed and steamed
Favorite vinaigrette
1 tablespoon finely minced shallot (or red onion)
Bib or Boston lettuce as a bed.
Salt and Pepper all gusto
Optional: bit of dill

With this gift from Mother Nature, you´ll never have lived so good.

Copyright © Mick Huerta 2013. All Rights Reserved. 
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Traditional Bolivian Kitchen packs Surprises! Sancho Panza Bolivia!

A cascade of surprises! First is the name! Sancho Panza? A reference to Spanish literature? Hailing from Madrid Pablo Zarate has had great success in La Paz with Spanish Restaurante Sancho Panza. He now teams up with Bolivian Enrique Mendoza and Bolivian Chef, Cristian Vargas to launch Sancho Panza Cocina Boliviana. 

The menu is truly national in scope. Foods from the mountains, valleys and lowlands are featured in daily specials and coupled with an ample salad bar and buffet for all the sides you can eat. A wine list selected to complement the dishes purveyed, thrills the palate. And the list of national beer labels is as delightful as it is comprehensive. Chef Vargas attends to time-tested traditional recipes, uses only local ingredients and elevates it all to achieve a beautiful dining experience. The environment is well appointed. The service is attentive without being intrusive. And prices are very affordable. It's the perfect restauarant for the traveller who wants to enjoy local fare and, also, for the Bolivian who wants to savour dishes that grandmother lovingly prepared for the family.

Nestled amongst international hotels, the restaurant is situated nicely on the second floor of Hotel Las Brisas on Calle Illampu making it easy to find from all points in the city. Even though just new on the scene, Sancho Panza Cocina Boliviana is one of the finest traditional kitchens in the city!

And, by the way, count on the surprises!

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Industry of All Nations Stiffs Andean Knitters - $1250! And right before Christmas!

The company "Industry of All Nations" has owed non-profit Spirit of the Andes $1250 for eight months. As an unpaid board member, I have attempted to collect the outstanding amount. I, now, receive this very unseemly letter from Juan Diego Gerscovich Co-Founder of INDUSTRY OF ALL NATIONS. Read for your self, I am attacked personally and then comes the accusation of fraud, he alleges that SPIRIT of the ANDES mixes fibers and looks to deceive rather than sell 100% Alpaca as promised.... Simple truth is that in March 2013, high quality 100% Alpaca garments were delivered to Industry of All Nations from Spirit of the Andes. And Spirit of the Andes has yet to be paid... end of story. Spirit would like to resolve the problem and in the future never work with the likes of Industry of All Nations again. Being there has been no move on the part of Industry of All Nations (even after repeated communication) to pay the outstanding balance, we feel the need to go public...

 In Juan Diego Gerscovich own words:

"Learn how to be a good and helpful human being and business person instead of messing up with other peoples life.

I will call on the right authorities to let them know how you are manipulating and using the knitters for your own small benefit.

This is the reason we will not pay you one cent for the samples you did for us, maybe next time you will be more responsible and less selfish with your actions. 

Forget about your ego and work to give work and opportunities to everybody who needs it, in Bolivia and everywhere else in the world."

"And by the way, we have been told that all your sweaters have a synthetic mix although you sold them to us as 100%Alpaca."

Juan Diego Gerscovich / Industry of All Nations

Even though Juan Diego Gerscovich admits above that the garments were sold to Industry of All Nations, Spirit of the Andes has yet to receive "one cent."... and all this right before Christmas!

INDUSTRY OF ALL NATIONS Reneges on Payment to Bolivian Knitters!

INDUSTRY OF ALL NATIONS is Past-Due $1250 (8 months) to some of the poorest artisans in South America, (SPIRIT of the ANDES)... and this is called fair trade?

Below please find the most recent correspondence ignored by Juan Diego Gerscovich Co-Founder of INDUSTRY OF ALL NATIONS:

Dear Sr. Gerscovich,

INDUSTRY OF ALL NATIONS can't ask some of the poorest women in the world to gift their labor and alpaca fiber to make your proprietary designs... It's unconscionable let alone unethical.

Our "OVER DUE" policy is a flat 15% of the invoice if it isn’t paid in full within 6 months. And another 15% if the invoice isn’t paid within a year…  rather lenient terms really.

"OVER DUE" $1250. This outstanding amount must be settled ...

Living in Color! Todo es de Color!

Living in color holds new meaning when shopping al fresco. Open-air markets have been with us since the first move from foraging to the farm. Since that time farmers have  needed to sell the lands' bounty and city dwellers have sought the freshest possible ingredients for their soup pot and spit. I revel in all that history and make a conscience move to avoid insipid supermarkets. Where I find nothing overly super except all the pretty packaging that ends in the landfill. I choose open-air markets... and over the years I´ve learnt the rhythm of seasons and the providence of life in South America. I've seen the children grow and parents grow older and have come to find that shopping for sustenance can be the making of community. Here we have our friendships and conversations. Here we live in color.

 

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GOOD MORNING SUNSHINE!

The oranges, mango, bananas and avocados have arrived in the city! Fruit seems to be everywhere. And the Rodriguez Farmer's Market is popping with color, activity and eager shoppers... Straight from the fields and nearby tropical zone, the farmers' markets are one of the oldest methods of marketing by small farmers directly to the people. And that's certainly true in La Paz, Bolivia. The freshest produce is always to be found first right here and it's a joy to be in the hussle bussle! And the oranges are 25 for $1.80! Okay, I'll take 50! So there is to be fresh squeezed juice every morning, smoothies, Crepes Suzette, Canard a l'Orange, Sicilian Granita, Caribbean Rice cooked with Coco & O.J., savory reduction sauces and... come to think of it, I'll take 100! And next week I'll take on the mangoes.

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Worst Train Experience Ever! Oruro to the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

As a rail enthusiast who´s ridden trains in Russia, Mongolia, China and in many other countries, I´d say the worst ever is the Bolivian line, Empresa Ferroviaria Andina, Oruro to the Salar de Uyuni. Why? All throughout the journey electric fans mounted at either end of the car would spritz air freshener and blow it onto the heads of the passengers. And whenever anyone went to the toilette and marred the floor, the attendant would spray chemical cleaner. A Euro couple with child asked that the fans be turned off. "No," came the answer indignantly. "Cleanliness is policy." Others made complaint to no avail. Some put a handkerchief to their noses. Many of us looked at each other in disbelief, while the few Bolivian passengers took it all silently in stride.

So much for a ticket in executive class. If ever to travel to the Salar de Uyuni again I´ll take the bus (as a rail buff that is hard to say), it´s cheaper and they, thankfully, do not spray chemicals. Most disappointing is the response from staff. On this train, the customer is never right... or so it seems once you acknowledge that actions do speak louder than words.

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"Kintu" — La Cumbre La Paz Bolivia

A "Kintu" is a trilogy of coca leaves that lifts one's prayers into the wind for Pachamama (mother earth) to transform into reality... El “k’intu” forma parte en las diversas ofrendas a las deidades ancestrales... Jallalla! 

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La Hoja Sagrada (The Sacred Leaf)

La Sagrada Hoja (The Sacred Leaf): The coca leaf is believed to have an essential spirituality which empowers Andeans to contact their nature gods like Mother Earth (Pacha Mama) Andes (Apus) Sun God (Inti Taya) Moon God (Mama Quilla) among others... for centuries considered miraculous for its curative properties. Also, makes the freshest Mate de Coca (Coca Tea) available anywhere.

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More than One Way to Skin a Trout!

A fishmonger in a landlocked country? Well, take into consideration that nearby Lake Titicaca is the largest freshwater lake in South America and is, also, the world’s highest navigable lake. Situated at 3,810 m above sea level, the lake nutures king-fish, mauri, the boga, suche, ispy and carachi.

Helping me wade through the options, Lidia is my fishmonger in the Rodriguez Farmer´s Market of La Paz, Bolivia. Even though young, she´s been at it years. Taught the business by her mother, the pair continue to work side-by-side selling a full variety of lake fishes al fresco. Most popular are the trout which were introduced in 1939. 

Lidia makes it look easy to skin a trout and her skill amazes me everytime. She advises that without gloves it´s impossible. I prefer to think it´s just impossible and leave it to the professionals... Simply select a fish and in moments it´s boned, skinned and wrapped to go... destined for great things like lemon and cilantro and a glass of white (Cousiño-Macul Sauvignon Gris).
.

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Beach House Inn - Arica Chile

I know this will sound a bit like a love letter and perhaps it is. But I utterly enjoy the Beach House Inn located next to the expansive Rio Lluta Bird Sanctuary.  

Upon arrival in my suite, I throw open a wall of windows facing the Pacific. I never sleep better than to the sound of waves and sea breezes. And the hot water and electric lights are powered by solar panels. As you shower the drain water is diverted to thirsty plants. Landscaping with salt resistant varieties speaks of lush gardens to come, in part to provide habitat for long-distance migrating birdlife needing a rest along the way. All of this makes taking up residence in a desert beach house all the more enjoyable.

These are perfect sensibilities for the fragile environment of the Atacama, the driest spot on earth. Everything's in place to coax a lush oasis out of the desert. A great restaurant on premises and a good mix of guests from all over the world cruising the Pan-American Highway that come for tranquility. Birders come for the adjacent sanctuary and surfers for a series of world class reef breaks, breaking close to the shore. It all makes for good conversation and a memorable experience for all. I look forward to returning to La Ponderosa - The Beach House time and again. And I will soon, this I sincerely promise!

  

Bird photo credit: Richard Crossley/VIREO

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Mercedes Sosa "Cantora"

The incomparable Mercedes Sosa (1935 · 2009) managed to complete one last project before passing. "Cantora" (Singer) is a double album of duets/balads featuring some of the greatest voices in Latin Music. You´ll find duets with Shakira, Calle 13, Caetano Veloso, and Joan Manuel Serrat amongst others. Thrilled! All morning long I've been playing it non-stop. I thought you might like a preview...

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Restaurant Vienna · Spirits Soar at 3,650 m (11,975 ft) above sea level!

Altitude can be rather tricky so it´s best to take it easy upon arrival. Experts give sage advice of eating and drinking little for the first few days. The idea is not to tax your system as you adjust to less oxygen in every breath you take.

And in keeping with this sound approach I called to make reservations for early supper 7pm, corner table, Restaurant Vienna.

We began with a twist on the classic Dry Martini. An Anchotini is achieved with addition of rolled anchovies to the renowned recipe. The anchovies marinade in the cocktail then are used to augment an already superb Caesar Salad of romaine lettuce and croutons dressed with parmesan cheese, lemon juice, olive oil, egg, Worcestershire sauce, garlic and freshly ground black pepper... followed by a Consommé, a type of clear soup in this case flavoured with Spanish Sherry. A dessert of Fresh Strawberries adorned with Chocolate Mousse topped things off beautifully.

Add unequaled service, beautiful surroundings and a pianist playing nicely in the corner and your adjustment to altitude won´t include loss of appetite, weakness or lightheadedness. Really, there´s nothing better than having your spirits soar at Restaurant Vienna!

Restaurant Vienna

Address: Federico Zuazo #1905

Tel: 591.2.244.1660

La Paz, Bolivia

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Camel through the Eye of a Needle

A friend (sartorially challenged) wrote to ask, "How do ya wear a camel?" First, remember it’s not what you do but how you do it (plus you need the cojones to pull it off well). And secondly, it’s undoubtedly the tie combined with cocktail that will make this jacket! Otherwise, burn it...

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Habourside Walk East · St. John's, Newfoundland

Madrock Cafe · Bay Roberts, Newfoundland

On a Sunday drive, we visited Conception Bay, Newfoundland. To our surprise Madrock Cafe in small town Bay Roberts was jammin! We chatted with others while waiting, all of whom turned out to be regulars. They gave glowing reports; one said we were lucky to be there, another assured we were in for a treat. No better recommendation than that! The wait wasn´t long at all. A couple at a big table had room for two more. So we sat down and yet more conversation ensued. Our tablemates were avid walkers and loved the 8km Bay Roberts Shoreline Heritage Walk which runs rather close to the cafe. The family next to us politely asked if we could pass the syrup. Friendly, really friendly and we felt perfectly relaxed. Which is the theme of the downhome decor; a mix of cabin and DIY crafty, accented with mismatched chairs and tables.

As for what´s on offer, it´s traditional Newfoundland fare: All Day Breakfast, homemade Fish Cakes, Fish & Brewis, Toutons, Soups and Bake Beans. And forever my favorite, Homemade Bread which really makes the best toast. It´s the stuff your grandmother would make if she were still alive and happened to be a Newfoundlander. Madrock is as much cultural experience as tís restaurant. And we shared the experience with tables and tables of happy diners, grannies to babies, the terribly fit and the awfully lazy out for Sunday breakfast.

Sated. We decided to take on the Heritage Walk which wanders along sheer cliffs and offers fabulous coastline views all the way down to the end of the penninsula. And from there, Bell Island and the namesake geological feature "MadRock" can be seen on the right. A Glorious Sunday, altogether! And only in Newfoundland!

Madrock Cafe
723 Water Street
Bay Roberts, Newfoundland
 

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Pi Gourmet Eatery · St. John´s Newfoundland

"Second trip arrived too early; we returned later!

Pizza is everywhere on the planet. And most times that does not translate into something you´d like to eat let alone pay for! Luckily here in St. John´s, the Pi Gourmet Eatery serves good funky thin crust pizza. I am prompted to say "funky" because of the playful names and creative combinations offered.

We sampled two! The Sir Isaac Salmon: sun-dried tomato and avocado cream cheese base topped with smoked salmon, sweet potatoes, red onion, tomato and feta. Also, we dug into their spin on the classic margherita pizza, E = MC²: herb tomato base topped with spinach, fresh tomato, fresh basil and brie. Even with the changes this pizza stayed classic enough to evoke the colors of the Italian flag — green (veg and herb leaves), white (cheese), and red (tomatoes). And that is the minimum requirement to wear the name Pizza Margherita! We enjoyed them both. Service was pleasant, ambience colourful and we´d readily go back again when the pizza bug bites!
  
Pi Gourmet Eatery
10 King's Rd., St. John's,
Newfoundland and Labrador
709.726.2000

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Gin & Tonic and Iggy Pop in September?

A "G &T" is a classic highball cocktail made with, you guessed it, gin and tonic water poured over ice, garnished with a slice of lime. So it´s September and the fizz is about to go out of the season; little doubts about a cocktail designed to beat the heat can grow as daily high temperatures waver. But really it´s not quite autumn and just too early for caridigans and B&S (Brandy and Soda) served in a lowball glass. 

Be a Wild One, Iggy Pop sez. Cease the moment. Look to get carried away with exuberance by seeking out the smallest bottles to maximize spritz! Bang your "G &T" with Bitter Lemon/Limon Dry. Slap it with Blood Orange or fresh Grapefruit Juice and squeeze the best out of the remaining days of summer. You alone (and Iggy´s dad) can make this party zing! 

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umi café: Ottawa Canada

Walking at night on a recent visit to Ottawa, I passed umi café on the edge of Ottawa's Chinatown. The music was good and the place was PACKED! I didn´t enter because there was no room for yet another soul and I walked on. Next morning curious, I stopped for coffee and a pastry (prepared on-site). The coffee was dark and full without being bitter; the pastry very fresh. And I asked about umi café and the event the night before. Come to find the café is a community-based, fair trade coffeehouse, serving an extensive menu beyond pastries. As for the crowds, umi café has been showcasing local musicians, poets and visual artists since 2008. Bravo!

Now it must be said that umi café is not a chain, a little run down and a whole lot funky. But the energy of a packed coffeehouse concert got me in the door albiet next day and I stopped for coffee each morning of my two remaining days in Ottawa. Obviously, umi cafe is doing something right.

 umi café
610 Somerset W  Ottawa, ON K1R 5K4
613.656.1638
Photo credit:  http://www.girlaboutotown.com/

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Happy Food! Singing Chef Pasquale Carpino!

 
 If I sing when I cook, the food is going to be happy... Pasquale Carpino

No explaining dreamscapes, let alone waking up with a quote. So I´ll simply share that this morning, I've had Chef Pasquale Carpino forefront of my mind.

Perhaps you remember him from early days when television offered very little food programming (only on weekends). And that´s how I came to know the popular television chef from Toronto. Who by the way, was a wonderful singer and would regal the audience with snippets of Italian opera as he worked knife and flame. For many of us who did not attend culinary school those weekend food programs along with a personal collection of cookbooks were our rite of passage into the brotherhood of the hearth. So it's understandable that I´ll be a little sentimental. Pasquale Carpino died December 30, 2005 at 69 years young.

And in the name of Chef Pasquale, Today I´ll make Linguine alla Marinara replete with capers and a hint of anchovy, a big leafy insalata and Gelato al Limon all the while drinking vino rosso and listening to Verdi´s La Traviata. I just want to make food happy as he taught me to do... and I´ll invite friends in honor of the singing chef! Just to make the Saturday complete!

At the time of this post, re-runs of his program Pasquale's Kitchen Express continue to air on Citytv in Toronto.

Image credit: Google

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Mayflower Restaurant and Pub, Ottawa Canada

Not far from Ottawa´s Parliament Hill and the Peacekeeping Monument, the Mayflower Pub felt like refuge. An English-Style haven of dark wood, polished brass and by design a classic public house for quenching thirst. Proudly displayed are taps touting beers, bitters and stouts from ´round the world. Full bar and full restaurant menu are on offer, as well.

And much like any good pub worldwide you can meet locals with little effort, swap entertaining fabrications, philosophize on the meaning of life, ruminate on global events or if you prefer opt for quiet conversation at tables away from the bar.

You´ll find this pub easy to make your Ottawa headquarters and with the patio seating it´s all too perfect as a focal point for couples and groups, too. Cheers!

Mayflower Restaurant and Pub 
247 Elgin St, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Tel: 613.238.3731


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His Girl Friday: Cary Grant

Timeless: Cary Grant - The Leading Man

England´s Archie Leach became Hollywood´s Cary Grant. Even though he never won an Oscar (he received an Honorary Oscar for achievement) his films have stood the test of time. His most endearing quote remains, “Everybody wants to be Cary Grant. Even I want to be Cary Grant.” And it´s still true of many men who aspire to dress well and comport themselves with sophistication. As valid today as when first released, his films are sought out, bought in collections and shared at home with family and friends. Just pop the corn and pour the drinks it´s always time for the leading man that all women wanted to love and all men wanted to be, the essential Cary Grant!

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Codroy Valley Estuary and Provincial Park

Here I drink the morning, hold it in my mouth and it tastes of salt. I turn a collar against the east wind as a dappled sky caps the scene and Marram grasses wave. Undulating, this sea grass is not like any I´ve encountered. It´s not oatlike with flat seed heads. But carries a cylindrical rolled top with ample weight to feel the wind and move to it´s wisp and whim. Firmly rooted, it hugs and fixes the dunes where the piping plovers nest. That time is gone now for the year but still best to walk close to waters edge so as not to disrupt the habitat of this bird as they are few. This is the Codroy Valley Provincial Park, it is but a spit of sand that spans the meeting point of the Grand Codroy River and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Saltwater meets sweet, a place of transition from land to sea. Although influenced by the tide, the estuary is protected creating a sanctuary for birdlife and subsequent populations of birdwatchers, photographers and naturalists. None of which were present this morning in the ragged cold. I take it all in and love the solitude on the bight, pipe smoldering in hand.


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New Pho Bo Ga La Chinatown Ottawa

Great variety, fast service and clean appearance but if you go deep into the menu your selection may be less than perfect. First thing off-putting was the waiter asked us to place a handful of loose chopsticks in the condiment caddy situated on the table. We complied but commented that the chopsticks couldn´t be very clean with all the handling. The waiter shrugged indifferently and asked for our order. We were four: two opted for Classic PHO but the remaining two... a chicken noodle soup proved a disappointment. The thinly sliced leg meat overcooked, stiff and was relegated to a serviette on the side. The spicy pork bowl was insipid. If not for condiments provided the two latter meals would have resulted in bland. As for the two classic diners, happy as larks! Two out of four, not a good score.

Lesson learnt? Go classic and all is tasty at New Pho Bo Ga La! Also, you just may want to bring your own chopsticks for cleanliness sake.


New Pho Bo Ga La
Chinatown 757 Somerset St West 
Ottawa, ON K1R6R1
 

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Sweet Brown! Update!

Kimberly Wilkins of Oklahoma City, better known as Sweet Brown, was interviewed by local station KFOR News Channel 4 after evacuating her burning apartment building. In describing the heavy presence of smoke, she emphatically stated “Ain’t nobody got time for that!” Her description of the chaos quickly went viral and she´s become an Internet sensation. With over 20,000,000 views on YouTube; she now has an agent, a Sweet Brown T-shirt line, a song with Will.I.Am, is co-host of Reality TV show, "Cheaters" and has a role in Tyler Perry's A Madea Christmas! Now that´s working your 15 minutes of fame! Bravo, Sweet Brown!

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Image and video source: Google 

Lilies on the Pond!

Serene August in Newfoundland is Cabin Life! This is a time of simple living punctuated by playful sea otters feeding in neighbouring fresh water ponds with an outlet to the Atlantic. The children fall mum with palms of torn bread lifted to the sky. Soundlessly the Grey Jays swoop down to steal offered crumbs in full flight. Long vigilant silences are rewarded with bolder birds even taking bread from the crowns of their heads.

Morning buckets in hand the blueberry picking has been a bumper crop of indigo with exclamations of discovery at the explosion of fruit on yet another low lying bush. The picking goes fast and exciting as a not so curious mother moose looks on while munching in the bramble. Just for the sweet joy of it, we hike down to revel in the lilies on the ponds... We suspect Monet would have felt right at home on this island brimming with ecstatic beauty...

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Photo credit: Rowena Ryan

Sledding Hill Lavender Farm! Bear River, Nova Scotia

Lavender is most the distinctive ingredient in the Herbes De Provence blend. Wonderful when used to flavor chicken, salads and so many other dishes.

Lavender is finding it way

Sledding Hill is a lavender farm located ! Bear River, Nova Scotia